A local’s guide to Peckham, from restaurants to galleries
Peckham is one of London’s most diverse neighbourhoods, as well as one of the youngest, by average age. It’s no surprise then that it’s home to a much-lauded international food culture, independent shopping and a lively nightlife that grew from underground parties of the late 20th century. The area is also synonymous with art. Many artists moved here in the 1980s and 1990s in search of cheap studio space; with many taking advantage of the abandoned housing and setting up artists’ squats, going on to garner international fame. And these have now been followed by a plethora of small, often artist-run galleries. Although the area has changed since then, the spirit lives on, making Peckham one of the most unique and authentic expressions of London.
Whether you’re after south Indian fare at Ganapati or textbook Italian at Artusi, Peckham’s food scene is known for its diversity and quick pace, with regular new openings tempering neighbourhood staples. Local favourites like JB’s Soulfood – a Jamaican takeaway renowned for the jerk chicken – and the family-run Kurdish restaurant Yada’s, have been joined by recent arrivals such as pan-European bistro Levan and the Middle Eastern kitchen at Peckham Bazaar. There are plenty of venues that you might recognise as former market stalls or one-off residencies, too, like Taco Queen on Rye Lane: the neighbourhood is a go-to for pop-up graduates.
SEE
1. Galleries
If you’re out in Peckham, carve out some time to see the neighbourhood’s galleries, whether it’s the renowned South London Gallery, which helped pioneer British avant-garde art in the 1990s, or the smaller spaces that are known for their intimate, inventive programmes and championing local artists. There’s some intriguing architecture to explore too, such as Will Alsop and Jan Störmer’s Peckham Library, shaped like an inverted L.
2. Hannah Barry Gallery
Hannah Barry established her gallery in the wake of the artist-run squat and exhibition space 78 Lyndhurst Way, which came to an end in 2007, inviting many of its artists to continue their work in her new venue. The rebellious, local spirit lives on over a decade later, showcasing art that is of its time and place. Barry is also in charge of Bold Tendencies, a non-profit art and music organisation that hosts exhibitions and events on the rooftop above Peckham Levels.
3. MOCA London
This multi-disciplinary gallery launched in 1994, creating site-specific installations wherever it so desired, and didn’t permanently settle on Bellenden Road until a decade later. Today its programme, curated by the artists Michael Petry and Roberto Ekholm, continues to showcase up-and-coming international artists in all mediums.
EAT
4. The Begging Bowl
Even by London’s quality and broad offering of Thai food, The Begging Bowl excels. Dishes such as braised beef shin green curry and deep-fried whole sea bass, as well as a propensity of vegetarian and vegan choices, make for an enticing menu that keeps us coming back. It’s all served in a bright and airy corner plot on Bellenden Road.
5. Kudu
This South African restaurant does more than champion the country’s rich barbecued meat heritage – owners Patrick Williams and Amy Corbin puts its braai and cast-iron potjie to more nuanced uses. It’s a broad and inventive menu: the grilled aubergine with black garlic, and mussels with red pepper and new potatoes, come recommended.
6. Deserted Cactus
The best vegan food in Peckham comes at a small kiosk inside Holdron’s Arcade, a strip of independent ventures near Peckham Rye. Chef Esme draws crowds every Saturday between one and four o’clock with an ever-changing menu that draws from global influences: expect dishes like southern fried jackfruit, mac no cheese, pumpkin curry and rice and peas served with plantain dumplings.
7. Peckham Cellars
The founding trio behind this neighbourhood restaurant, wine bar and bottle-shop are Helen Hall, Luke West-Whylie and Ben McVeigh, who collectively earned their hospitality chevrons in restaurants like Rovi and Marcella. Small plates including anchovy and olive gildas, hake and clams, and aubergine with mozzarella and honey sit on the menu created by head chef Pablo Alfonso. The wine list comprises a well-thought-out mix of old world stalwarts like red Chambertin from Burgundy and natural wines from little-known vineyards far beyond.
8. Mr Bao
A good bao is hard to get right – it’s a skill honed over years. And owner Frank Yeung has been learning from the best – namely his father, Joe, originally from Hong Kong and with over three decades experience running his own Chinese restaurant. While the classic pork belly bun is excellent, it’s the vegetarian options – shiitake mushroom or tofu – that really shine here.
9. Persepolis
Head to this bustling Persian café for big helpings of Iranian and Middle Eastern vegetarian dishes: mast-o-khiar with warm pitta, falafel, halloumi with honey and more. The restaurant is reached via a delicatessen so, if you’re not too full afterwards, pick up some Persian paklava on your way out – a sweet way to round things off.
SHOP
10. Independent shops
Independent shops abound here, with everyone from jewellery designers and ceramicists to furniture restores and printers calling Peckham home. Along Bellenden Road, among a cluster of other storefronts, you’ll find formse15, which stocks men’s, women’s and homeware from hard-to-find brands; on the other side of Peckham, north of Queen’s Road, is Vintique, for those after vintage furniture.
11. D.A.Y. Boutique
The three sisters who run D.A.Y. have put together a well-curated selection of men’s and women’s fashion that oscillate from ankle-length, collared frocks by Levete Room to roll-top urban rucksacks by Rains.
12. General Store
The recipe is simple: the best, seasonal produce from British and European suppliers – think sourdough by FLOR bakery in Borough, Gloucestershire eggs, and bacon from País Vasco – as well as regular fruit and vegetable boxes by subscription.
13. Alkemi Store
Besides a wide range of fashion, homeware, gardening tools, jewellery and post-modern inspired glassware, Alkemi showcases artwork by local artists.
14. Sage Flowers
Friends-owners Romy St Clair and Iona Mathieson hand-arrange highly creative bouquets that can be picked up in store or delivered anywhere in London, and have worked with clients that range from Gucci to the Camberwell Arms. A hint to artful gift-givers: Sage offers regular flower arranging workshops.
DO
15. Peckham Levels
“When one is tired of Peckham, one is tired of life…” Samuel Johnson did not say this, but had he been to 21st-century Peckham, he might well have done. There is never a shortage of events to catch your eye, or ear, and spaces to explore.
Peckham Levels is a community hub and platform for the neighbourhood’s creating outpouring. The former car park hosts everything from a food market and photography darkroom to exhibition spaces, independent designers and a yoga studio.
16. Peckham Rye
In 1894 London County Council spent the modern-day equivalent of £6m to buy and make public the land that is now Peckham Rye. And it’s well that they did: this is the heart of the neighbourhood. Grab a coffee nearby and go for a wander.
17. Copeland Park & Bussey Building
Like Peckham Levels, this is a community-led, grass-roots organisation that repurposed a 1930s art-deco department store and surrounding estate into venues for art galleries, events, fitness classes, restaurants, shops and more.
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