Our Guide to Dulwich: from modernist architecture to master paintings
Dulwich, a particularly peaceful corner of the capital with plenty of village-like charm, feels a million miles from the bustle of London Bridge when really, it’s only around five. For many (ourselves included), however, the south-east London neighbourhood’s spectacular modernist architecture is its biggest draw. The area is rich in highly sought-after mid-century developments, most of which sit within the Dulwich Estate, founded by Shakespearean actor Edward Alleyn in 1619, but rejuvenated by local architecture firm Austin Vernon & Partners in the 1950s.
Wandering around the idyllic leafy streets, lined with old chestnut trees and white picket fences, you might also stumble across handsome Georgian houses, a cul-de-sac of German-built, energy-efficient Huf Haus homes, and delightful ‘rose cottages’. There is also a picturesque high street filled with independent shops, cafes and restaurants, where even the local pub is Grade II-listed. If that isn’t enough to make you schedule a trip to Dulwich immediately, our guide ought to do the trick, featuring a most buzzed-about new bakery and the country’s oldest art gallery, as well as the most notable architectural feats to look out for, including the dramatic ziggurat-inspired Dawson’s Heights.
SEE
1. The Dulwich Estate
The Dulwich Estate, which occupies approximately 1,500 acres altogether and comprises around 5,000 homes, is renowned for its exceptional mid-century architecture. Most of this is thanks to the uncle-and-nephew architect duo Russell and Fredrick Austin Vernon – of Austin Vernon & Partners – who were called upon to restore the estate following its destruction in World War II. The result: homes made for modern living defined by their open rooms, large expanses of glass and connection to the outdoors. The buildings, which are dotted all over Dulwich and its borders – reaching Crystal Palace to the south and Denmark Hill to the north – include the shops and houses of Dulwich Village (more on those later).
2. Dawson’s Heights
Dawson’s Heights – which has defined the south London skyline since it was built between 1964-72 – is a significant social housing estate in East Dulwich, poised on the highest point of Dawson’s Hill. Edinburgh-born architect Kate Macintosh conceived the distinctive building aged just 26, designing 12 storeys at its centre and a dramatic stepped hilltop profile that follows the contours of the landscape. The sought-after apartments (almost 300 in total) offer generous balconies, natural lighting and uninterrupted views of the city – stretching from Battersea to the left to the Docklands to the right. Top tip: the sculptural building is best seen in all its glory from Horniman Gardens, which dominates the horizon to the west.
3. Dulwich Picture Gallery
Designed by Sir John Soane and opened in 1817, Dulwich Picture Gallery is England’s oldest public art gallery. It houses a permanent collection of more than 600 European paintings, including masterpieces by the likes of Rembrandt, Gainsborough, Canaletto and Poussin, and hosts seasonal exhibitions. The natural light here is spectacular thanks to Soane’s pioneering skylight design, featuring roof lanterns on the top of the building. In fact, locals enjoy the beautiful Grade II-listed building and its gorgeous three-acre garden almost as much as the artwork.
EAT
4. Franklins
It’s not without reason this neighbourhood dining spot has stood the test of time – nor that it’s often referred to as the St John of south London. For more than 20 years, Franklins has served a daily changing menu of seasonal British dishes with a farm-to-table ethos, garnering a loyal local following and receiving rave reviews from the likes of Jay Rayner. Enjoy an oyster or two while you peruse the unfussy but flavour-packed menu, which has previously offered the likes of calves’ liver, wild garlic mash and black pudding, or pork belly, leeks and lentils – all responsibly sourced from the British Isles. You’ll want to stay for a nightcap in the atmospheric bar area afterwards, too.
5. Eric’s
Since former Flor head baker Helen Evans opened her own establishment earlier this year, it’s been drawing queues round the block. Don’t let that put you off, though – her sourdough porridge bread, rye tin loaves, topped focaccia and seasonal pastries (all made using UK-grown wheat) are worthy of the buzz. Located on a bright street-corner spot with equally bright interiors of sunshine-yellow tiles and light ash-wood fittings, Eric’s also hosts a series of workshops for those of you who like the idea of making delicious baked goods (nearly) as much as eating them, which Helen runs alongside industry friends.
6. Il Sovrano
This cafe and deli in the heart of West Dulwich, run by locals Meghan and Bruno (who also own their own farm in Calabria), is there to meet your needs at every stage of the day. Start with a strong Italian coffee and a pastry, then there’s freshly made salad for lunch, high-quality ingredients to make dinner at home (from irresistibly creamy mozzarella, fresh ravioli and cured meats to seasonal veg and extra virgin olive oil), or a glorious glass of red to wind down with after work. The duo also provides a catering service to really impress your friends, whether it’s for a big birthday bash or a more intimate picnic in the park.
7. La Gastronomia
Italian delicatessen and coffee shop La Gastronomia has been blessing locals with an authentic taste of Italy since 1989. Owner Ivano says his passion for serving authentic Italian food with a smile comes from his father, Matteo, who moved from a small village on the Amalfi Coast to London in the 1950s and opened his own restaurant, La Bellavista, in Kensington. La Gastronomia is most famous for its made-to-order paninis, using specialties from the deli counter – think Tuscan fennel salami, smoked mozzarella, balsamic onions, sundried tomatoes and pesto – which you can eat in or take away. You never need to worry about a boring work-from-home lunch again.
SHOP
8. iyouall
iyouall is a design and lifestyle store on East Dulwich Road from the team behind London-based creative studio iya studio, selling a considered range of contemporary pieces for the home and office. Every stationery addict’s dream, here you’ll find retro-looking pencil cases and diaries from cult Japanese brand Hightide alongside Normann Copenhagen desk accessories and pens by Korean label Livework, as well as cards, prints and notebooks from the studio’s own creative team. Head downstairs to browse a small selection of furniture items from brands including Hay, Muuto and Ferm Living, or book an appointment at the nearby Deptford Furniture Showroom for larger pieces.
9. Forest
Forest, a botanical heaven tucked behind Lordship Lane, specialises in exotic houseplants and cut flowers. It’s run by Fran and her daughters, Alice and Maddie, who have a contagious passion for plants and are extremely keen to impart their knowledge – both on the shop floor and at their regular workshops. For the horticultural novices out there, the helpful trio will handpick you an easy-to-care-for plant suited to your home environment and will teach you how to look after it. All you have to do is choose the perfect pot to pair it with, whether that’s a macrame hanging basket or an antique brass stand.
10. The Cheese Block
The selection you’ll find at The Cheese Block is as delightful as you’d expect from a business that has been going for more than three decades. Run by Bhanuprasad Rao since it opened its doors in 1991, this East Dulwich institution stocks specialty European and British produce as well as cheeses from around the world, mostly handpicked by Bhanuprasad himself – and many of which you won’t have heard of before.
11. Hop Burns and Black
This local shop and hangout nestled between a bike shop and a fast-food pizza joint on Dulwich Road offers a fine selection of craft beers (hop), a staggering 100+ hot-sauce range (burns) and its own coffee hatch (black). There are picnic benches at the front, set back from the street behind a sleek grey picket fence, where you can try as many beers as you like before committing – or if that isn’t your thing, take your pick from a wide range of cider and natural wines.
DO
12. Dulwich Park
You’ll find all the usual suspects at Dulwich Park – a playground, boating lake, walking paths, tennis courts – but there are a few features that elevate this peaceful spot to extra special. The Winter Garden has been specially planted for colour in colder months, injecting visitors with a much-needed dose of serotonin, while the American Garden is full of plants from the east coast of the United States and was visited regularly by Queen Mary (look out for the Grade II-listed gate named after her). Once you’ve explored those, swing by the Dulwich Clock Cafe, which serves up handmade sourdough pizzas – certainly not your average park cafe.
13. Dulwich Village
Dulwich Village is the name of the area’s high street, which feels like a quiet enclave out of town in all the right ways. Here, locals come together to enjoy the wide range of independent spots, restaurants and coffee shops, including Dulwich’s oldest bookshop, Village Books, and a much-loved Grade II-listed pub infused with old-world charm, the Crown & Greyhound. The street is dotted with elegant houses – some of which have been awarded Grade II-listed status and all of which sit within the Dulwich Estate. It’s the perfect stretch to meander along on a Sunday afternoon, concluding with a stop at Dulwich Park.
BUY
14. Woodsyre II, London SE26
This five-bedroom family home lies within Woodsyre, one of Austin Vernon & Partners’ modernist estates in Sydenham Hill (less than 10 minutes by foot to Dulwich Wood). With slick clean lines, generous proportions and large windows framing treetops, it has all the credentials we lust over when it comes to mid-century housing. The outdoor space is just as lovely, with a private garden that catches the afternoon sun and is planted with sweet-smelling jasmine and climbing ivy. Elsewhere, a decked terrace offers a separate space for alfresco dining – an enviable spot throughout the sun-filled months.
15. Elmwood Road II, London SE24
This reimagined Edwardian terraced house in North Dulwich was shortlisted for both a RIBA award and Blueprint design award, post-completion in 2015. While it pays homage to period housing, it’s also a leading example of contemporary design: inside, a refined palette of concrete, oak and bamboo defines the scheme, while expansive glazing creates a seamless connection to the garden. Here, you can also admire over the thoughtfully designed rear façade, which features a sculptural roof and grooved larch cladding.
Words Maria Guihen
Photography Stephen James
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