Our Guide to Oxford: cinnamon buns, honey-hued domes and small plates in the 'city of dreaming spires'
The “dreaming spires” of Oxford conjure many moving vignettes: of gowns dashing through hallowed quads; of lithe rowers coursing through meadows; of JRR Tolkien plotting in a smoky snug. But beyond these time-worn tropes is a city that has continued to satiate students, locals and tourists alike for centuries.
There is – for starters – a constantly evolving café and bar scene that addresses the need for cinnamon-dusted bakes and natural wine by the glass. There’s also ample choice of independent shops and galleries that will encourage you to wend your through the city’s cobbled streets until evening, when you will be faced with a difficult choice of creative neighbourhood restaurants.
And when you are done admiring the honey-hued domes or Arne Jacobsen-designed cutlery at St Catz, there are expansive pockets of calm to retreat to, be it under the shade of a rare tree at the Botanic Garden and Arboretum, or in an oversized bucket of cold water at the wild spa on the edge of town. Hold on to your handlebars for our guide to this thinking city …
SEE
1. St Catherine’s College
A living museum of Arne Jacobsen’s masterful designs, the grounds of St Catherine’s College is a must-see for followers of Danish modernism. Realised in 1964, the Grade I-listed buildings and gardens were realised in Jacobsen’s modern design language. Leaving behind an indelible architectural legacy, this design destination – which welcomes students and visitors throughout the year – is considered one of Jacobsen’s most significant works. His designs went further than just the fabric of the college buildings; cutlery, furniture and lampshades feature the clean lines and human forms that have become synonymous with his name.
2. Benjamin Parsons x Hannah Payne
Nestled in Summertown’s charming North Parade, Benjamin Parsons x Hannah Payne, offers a creative platform for both renowned and up-and-coming artists. Filled with a carefully curated assortment of modern British art, expect to see pieces from the likes of Barbara Nicholls, Aliki Braine and Ham Darroch. Time your trip to coincide with a forthcoming exhibition, Let’s Go (17 May-21 June), in the gallery’s new space on Banbury Road, which features the works of Ham Darroch, Bridget Riley, Emily Wolfe and more.
3. The Ultimate Picture Palace
Tucked away off Cowley Road, you’ll find The Ultimate Picture Palace, the city’s oldest and only independent cinema. This dainty, art deco building dates from 1911, when local actor and businessman, Frank Stuart, decided the city deserved its first purpose-built cinema. Awarded Grade II-listed status in 1994 and now a community-owned cinema, the building still features the original box office window that opens to the street. While the programme no longer includes the iconic Oxford v Cambridge Boat Race, The Ultimate Picture Palace showcases a mix of independent, international and classic titles, making this a worthy detour for film and architecture fans.
DO
4. Oxford Botanic Garden and Arboretum
Founded in 1621, the remarkable Oxford Botanic Garden and Arboretum offers welcome respite from the bustling streets. Housing 130 acres of the world’s rare and endangered trees, and over 5,000 different plant species, the seven display glasshouses will soon feature a revamp by Grimshaw Architects. Join one of the free tours on the first Wednesday of every month or sign up to a host of paid classes, ranging from foraging to forest bathing. After your visit, walk down to the river by Magdalen Bridge and you’ll soon stumble upon a local boat hire company. Hop on board and glide past Oxford’s green gardens before mooring your boat for a picnic in Christ Church College Meadows.
5. Sauna at the Farm
Leah Maclean was one of the early pioneers to set up an outdoor gym in the Oxfordshire countryside. With a commitment to getting people outdoors, she has recently expanded her business to include a wild spa. Located just a short drive from the city centre at Collins Farm, Sauna at the Farm offers a chance to reconnect with nature in the heart of rural Frilford. Sign up for a class, bathe in the freestanding hot tub or enjoy a cold immersion experience before unwinding in a communal or private wood-fired sauna.
EAT
6. Bia
Run by 27-year-old chef patron, George Nolan, Bia embodies the youthful spirit and unbridled creativity often found in student towns. The rotating menu – which runs from Monday to Saturday – brings a contemporary twist to local favourites and boasts a seductive selection of small plates and sharing platters. George serves the locals of Summertown classics with unexpected flavours, such as loin of pork served with Bombay mash and sauerkraut. Dessert might be Earl Grey ice-cream with hazelnut soil.
7. New Ground Coffee & Bar
New Ground is a happy fusion of expertly crafted coffee and social responsibility. A café and wine bar all at once, the newly opened outpost in Ship Street offers ex-offenders work and training opportunities while providing locals with their daily caffeine-and-cinnamon-bun fix. Inside, white walls and pale, wooden floors contrast with stark black furniture and fittings, creating a crisp, Scandi-inspired interior that transitions seamlessly from café to bar, making it easy to justify two visits in one day.
8. Wilding
A well-established fixture in Oxford’s bohemian Little Clarendon Street, locals head to Wilding for its reliably impeccable food and wine. Newly appointed head chef, Ben Wood, brings years of Michelin cooking to this lively bistro setting, which emphasises ethically-sourced and seasonal produce; think British shiitake fideau, rare breed pork chops from the Lake District and a selection of cheese from the neighbouring Jericho Cheese Company. Wilding is also serious about wine, which you can sup by the glass at the bar or buy to go from the shop.
9. Broche
Broche is a micro-but-mighty coffee shop tucked away in a residential street in Jericho, selling speciality coffees and homemade pastries from a humble hatch. Combining minimalist design features with natural materials such as bespoke mycelium lamps realised by NAAW Design Agency and repurposed pieces including a jewellery display cabinet used to showcase a delightful assortment of baked treats, ditch the tourist traps and head straight to this aesthete-approved café instead.
10. Hamblin Kiosk
Ever since Hugo Thurston and Kate Hamblin opened Hamblin Bread on Iffley Road in 2018, it’s been drawing queues around the block. Following their first shopfront success, the duo have recently opened Hamblin Kiosk in the historic Covered Market, which dates back to the 1770s. Home to over 50 independent shops, cafés and bars, you’ll find the Kiosk on Avenue 2, where they run a swift takeaway service as well as weekly pop-ups. Bread and pastries take centre stage – including barley and linseed loaves and Swedish semlor buns.
SHOP
11. Objects Of Use
Sustainably minded and beautifully curated, Objects of Use is a modern-day hardware store based on Market Street that aims to rewrite traditions for the next generation. Bringing together household staples and other objects of use from countries as far-flung as Japan, Korea and Finland, here you’ll find a wide selection of utilitarian sundries and handcrafted objects for the garden and home – all selected for their beauty and longevity.
12. Minox
Known for Modern Art Oxford – one of the UK’s leading contemporary art spaces – St Ebbes Street is also home to luxury fashion boutique, Minox. Established by a local husband-and-wife duo in 2018 and hidden behind a discreet private entrance that’s easy to miss, the minimal, sculptural interiors of Minox are softened by rails of covetable designs from established and emerging labels such as Toteme, Ganni and Low Classic. There’s also a small mix of homeware by Fornasetti to round out the edit.
13. May & Co
The place to source antique, vintage and mid-century finds, May & Co specialise in 19th and 20th-century furniture and homeware. Founded by Amy Williams and Martin Harbord, the pair boasts over 40 years of combined experience in the antique trade and excel at finding pieces with personality that are then carefully restored and revived in-house. The collection is available to browse online or you can message ahead to shop in person. Alternatively, drop in on one of their regular open days at the workshop, where you might come away with a fine set of vintage oak dining chairs by Heals of London or a beautiful Arts and Crafts oak cabinet.
14. Blackwell's Bookshop
Blackwell’s – whose flagship at 50 Broad Street has been trading since 1879 – is a worthy stop for enthusiastic bibliophiles. The Oxford institution is known for its Norrington Room, listed in the Guinness Book of Records as the single largest room in the world selling books. It’s handily located next to the Bridge of Sighs, the Sheldonian Theatre, the Bodleian Library, Divinity School and Radcliffe Camera should you need a baroque backdrop to reading your fresh novel.
Words Jessica-Christin Hametner
Photography Rachel Ferriman, John Cairns, Rueben Worlledge and Franco Santarsieri
See all of our Oxford listings.
RELATED ON THE MODERN HOUSE
Our guide to Kentish Town: Technicolor townhouses, natural wine and nature in north London
Take a Dip: London’s best swimming spots – from lakes to lidos
Our Guide to Dulwich: from modernist architecture to master paintings
Plate in the Sun: London’s best restaurants for alfresco dining
Our guide to Herne Hill and Tulse Hill: vibrant markets and outdoor swimming in south London
Best Buds: the most beautiful garden centres in London
Good Start: the best breakfasts in London
Our guide to Camden Town and Primrose Hill: from panoramic views to a community ceramics space
Nice Slice: the best pizza in London
The best of Kensal Rise and Queen’s Park, north-west London