Our guide to Herne Hill and Tulse Hill: vibrant markets and outdoor swimming in south London
Herne Hill and Tulse Hill offer a slice of village life in zone two. Sitting pretty on either side of one of south London’s most beautiful green spaces, Brockwell Park, both have a strong sense of community and charming high streets. Gone are the days when they were overshadowed by their more populated neighbours of Brixton and Dulwich: today Herne Hill and Tulse Hill are filled with an ever-growing abundance of independent shops, buzzy restaurants, thriving markets and cultural destinations.
If that’s not enough to convince you that these pockets of the capital are perfectly balancing the urban with the pastoral, each has excellent rail connections to central London and, although neither is on the underground, they’re a leisurely 20-minute stroll from the beating heart of Brixton. Here’s our guide to Herne Hill and Tulse Hill, featuring a monthly community-run street market, a quaint bookshop, one of the best gelato spots in the city and a wonderful Grade II-listed lido.
SEE
1. Brockwell Park
There are more than 3,000 parks in London but this one stands out as superior. Aside from its picturesque ponds, old oak trees and open grassy expanses, Brockwell Park – originally the private grounds of glass merchant John Blades – is packed with treasures, such as the 19th-century Tritton clock, a neoclassical temple folly, the J. J. Sexby-designed walled garden filled with flowers, and Brockwell Hall, Blades’ Grade II-listed Georgian manor. The park also hosts a variety of festivals in the summer, including the Lambeth Country Show, a family-friendly (and free) event with attractions including sheep shearing and vegetable-growing competitions. And then there’s the lido – on which more to come…
2. West Norwood Library and Picturehouse
Film lovers and bookworms rejoice: Nettlefold Hall – designed by Ted Hollamby, Lambeth’s first borough architect, and opened in 1969 by Princess Margaret – was lovingly restored as a Picturehouse cinema complete with a well-stocked library in 2018. The modernist building, where part of Stanley Kubrick’s A Clockwork Orange was filmed, has four screens showing the latest releases and a lovely cafe and bar. Many of the building’s original features remain intact, including a sequence of flat and sloping roofs and clay flooring.
EAT
3. Llewelyn’s
Ideally located just outside Herne Hill station, this beloved neighbourhood restaurant offers seasonally changing lunch and dinner menus with modern Mediterranean accents. Plates include jamón ibérico and mahón croquettes, monkfish with braised fennel, chorizo and chickpeas, and mandarin buttermilk panna cotta. Llewelyn’s also has a thoughtfully curated wine list and a small yet perfectly formed cocktail list, which often includes a seasonal twist on a martini (the tomato-water version is divine). Enjoy people-watching through the large windows from one of the emerald leather banquettes, or grab a spot in the sun-dappled garden, fitted with heaters for chillier moments.
4. Lulu’s
A cafe and deli by day, a wine bar serving small plates by night. The team behind Llewelyn’s opened its younger sibling, Lulu’s, quite literally next door on Herne Hill’s Station Square at the end of 2022. During the day, the cosy space sells pastries, bagels, sandwiches and salads, as well as cupboard and fridge staples, including olive oil, pasta, bread and fruit and veg. After 6pm, between Wednesday and Sunday, Lulu’s transforms into an elegant candlelit dining spot under the helm of Danish chef Lasse Petersen, whose impressive CV includes Islington’s Westerns Laundry and Exmouth Market’s Moro.
5. Naughty Piglets
The team behind Naughty Piglets describes their Herne Hill restaurant as having “an English heart with a French accent”. The buzzy bistro, which is set just away from the bustle of Brixton at the north-western tip of Brockwell Park, serves beautifully crafted sharing plates driven by the seasons, such as smoked cod’s roe with pork crackling, soy-pickled mushrooms in crème fraîche, and raw diver scallops with rhubarb, ginger and coriander. Bonus points: Naughty Piglets has an extensive list of natural wines too. We recommend sitting at the counter to soak up the lively atmosphere.
6. Minus 12° Craft Ice Cream
In search of south London’s best gelato? Minus 12˚ Craft Ice Cream is one of the best. Founder Gavin developed a fondness for the sweet treat while living in Sydney, which led to trips to Italy to find the best equipment and methods to make and store gelato at the perfect temperature (there are no points for guessing what the answer is). Today he churns out small batches from his kiosk in Herne Hill station, using quality ingredients to create flavours that include black forest; mascarpone and caramelised figs; and hazelnut (made with nocciola paste from the Piedmont region of Italy, of course). Consider Minus 12˚ the perfect pitstop after a stuffy commute home.
7. Umana Yana
Umana Yana, which takes its name from a monument in Guyana and means “meeting place of the people” in Wai-Wai, is a family-run Guyanese and Caribbean spot on the edge of Herne Hill’s side of Brockwell Park. It specialises in rotis stuffed with an array of fillings, from chicken stews and goat curries to potato, chickpeas, pumpkin and spinach. The appetisers are equally tempting and include prawn and crayfish patties and salt-fish fritters. There’s only one table inside the modest shop and just a couple at the front, so order to go or as a delivery, if you’re local. Our tip: make sure to ask about the special of the day.
SHOP
8. Bleu Furniture
Bleu Furniture – or Morbleu as the shopfront reads – is a second-hand design store predominately sourcing and selling pieces made between 1920 and 1970. It was established in 1996 by dealer Moses Otunla, also known for appearing on the BBC antiques show The Bidding Room, who finds remarkable objects and furniture from around the world, from decorative art to African masks. Everything inside this emporium has been expertly chosen and makes for a wonderful rummage, whether you come away with something or not.
9. Herne Hill Books
Herne Hill Books is a charming independent bookshop on a corner of Station Square, with a quaint brick-and-teal exterior. The sister of Clapham Books, another south London favourite, it might be modest but the shop is jam-packed with a superb range spanning all genres, from beloved classics to contemporary literature. The staff are always on hand to give a recommendation if you’re struggling to narrow your choice down. And be sure to look out for regular author signings and readings.
10. Jo’s House
After working for 16 years for a large jewellery retailer, namesake Jo opened her own contemporary homeware shop as a remedy to “the sterile department-store atmosphere” she was used to, offering a warm and welcoming perusing environment. A short walk from Herne Hill station, Jo’s sells locally sourced independent products alongside internationally known brands that have been handpicked for their high quality. It’s the perfect shop for picking up a gift – from irresistibly scented natural candles and hand-painted ceramics to coffee-table books and, of course, jewellery.
11. Croxted Road Garden Centre
Every area needs a trusty garden centre and Croxted Road’s is exactly that. Helping south Londoners transform their outdoor space since 1969, this family-run business is committed to making your gardening experience a pleasant one, whether you’re a green-fingered expert or a budding beginner. From seeds and soil to blooming flowers, fruit trees and ornaments, Croxted Road Garden Centre has everything you need to get your beds or balcony in top shape. For those without any outdoor space, it has a large selection of indoor plants too.
DO
12. Brockwell Lido
There’s no better way to shake off the stresses of city life than by going for an invigorating outdoor swim. Brockwell Lido, situated in a corner of the park, first opened in July 1937 before it was closed by Lambeth Council in 1990. But, thanks to a local campaign, it wasn’t long until it reopened, in 1994. Today, the 50m pool, which is open all year round, is one of south London’s most-loved social hubs. Equally admired is the Grade II-listed Art Deco building that surrounds it, housing a gym and Four Hundred Rabbits – a tasty sourdough pizza joint also serving craft beer – the perfect reward after you’ve worked up an appetite doing some laps.
13. Parade Mews Pottery
Located down a pretty cobbled mews in Tulse Hill, Parade Mews Pottery’s goal is to provide everyone, regardless of experience, the opportunity to explore their creativity through clay. The light-filled studio runs classes for both adults and children – from beginners to intermediates – in which you will learn how to throw on the wheel and glaze your work. For more experienced potters, there are four communal studios you can become a member of, each well-equipped with wheels, basic tools, bats for throwing, kilns and large communal tables.
14. Herne Hill Market
London has a wealth of markets to wander around at the weekend – and if you’re local to south London, or up for a pilgrimage, Herne Hill Market is well worth a visit. It opens every Sunday between 10am and 4pm, at the heart of the bustling pedestrianised Station Square, and it prides itself on selling locally sourced produce; there are more than 50 stalls trading food, plants, vintage clothes, records and arts and crafts, all from within 100 miles of Herne Hill. Quash your Sunday hangover with one of the many hot food offerings, then pick up some sourdough bread and fresh fruit and veg for the week ahead.
15. Feast
Feast, a vibrant street market, runs on the first Sunday of every month from April to December, led almost entirely by volunteers. There are around 400 stalls covering the stretch from Tulse Hill to West Norwood, across four sections: the Artisans’ Market, showcasing local makers selling handmade jewellery, pottery, photography and art; Fresh ’n’ Green, which is where you can pick fruit and veg; the Food Fair, which has street food from all corners of the globe, from bratwurst to souvlaki; and the Village Green, where you’ll find all things sustainable and community-focused, as well as a kids’ play zone. It’s a testament to the neighbourly spirit of this corner of south London.
See all of our Herne Hill and Tulse Hill listings.
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