A neighbourhood guide to Blackheath: what to do and the architecture to see
‘Blackheath Village,’ read old-time signs when approaching the south east London district of Blackheath. Its former name remains perfectly fitting: although the neighbourhood is no further from central London than the likes of Camberwell, Blackheath has a village feel that is rarely found in the capital. There’s the view of the All Saints’ spire poking out of the green heath; the bustling high street of traditional pubs, cafés, and independent shops; the stately homes that surround the area. But there’s more to Blackheath than meets the eye: it’s also the location of several modernist homes, such as those built by architect Royston Summers on the west side of the heath in the early 20th century – an ideal area, then, to wander around on weekends. Here’s our guide to the best of Blackheath, from the bookshops to browse to the architecture to see.
SEE
1. The Paragon
The Paragon is perhaps one of the most delightful examples of Georgian architecture in the city. Situated on a quiet, tucked-away corner of the heath, the Georgian crescent features 14 four-storey homes connected by colonnades, each with bay windows that overlook large private gardens. While it was architect Michael Searles who first completed the project in 1806 for a wealthy timber merchant-turned-developer, it was architect Charles Bernard Brown that significantly restored the crescent in the 1940s and 1950s. It has since been Grade I-listed – a listing on par with Buckingham Palace and St. Paul’s Cathedral.
2. The Pagoda
This curious Grade II*-listed building, so charmingly at odds with its surroundings, was built around the late 1760s when interest in Chinese architecture was on the rise in the West. Perhaps unsurprisingly for such an unusual home, it led an intriguing former life: it was once a nursery, run by George IV’s wife Princess Charlotte, and in the 1950s it briefly served as a home for Tamil refugees.
3. North Several
Another architectural gem in the area is Royston Summers’ North Several. Designed in the late 1960s, North Several is a terrace of seven wonderful modernist homes that overlook the heath, each with floor-to-ceiling windows, concrete and brick exteriors, and wooden interiors throughout. Summers, who set up his architecture practice in Blackheath in 1964, was once a resident here, as was the noteworthy writer and playwright Micheal Flynn.
SHOP
4. Bookshop on the Heath
With its turquoise façade and gilded pillars, you can’t miss the Bookshop on the Heath. This independent store’s niche is secondhand and rare books: here, you might come across the first revised edition of Ulysses by James Joyce, for example, or 1960s copies of the political magazine Private Eye. Maps and prints are also available, with many articles touching on the local area, from Palladian architecture to the history of south London.
EAT
5. Le Bar à Vin
This dimly lit French wine bar serves over 100 wines – and 25 of them come by the carafe, too. Formerly known as Le Bouchon, Le Bar à Vin takes its cues from bars you might come across in Paris. The food menu, for example, includes cheese and charcuterie boards and dishes such as snails and boeuf bourguignon. On warmer days, enjoy the buzz in the air when tables spill out on the street.
DO
6. The Heath
The heath is one of the largest green open spaces in Blackheath, and indeed is one of the largest parcels of common land in London. Thanks to its practically flat ground, it’s the perfect spot for dog walkers and runners – frequent attendees here. The heart of Blackheath, the heath is on the edge of the lush Greenwich Park, so visitors should be well prepared to wander further afield on pleasant days. It’s also the starting point of the London Marathon, a popular spot for team sports, and even hosts an annual carnival.
7. Blackheath Farmers' Market
Every Sunday, from 10am to 2pm, Blackheath station’s car park turns into a lively farmers’ market. With a history spanning 20 years, expect to overhear members of the community and the farmers on the stalls chatter on a first-name basis. Blackheath Farmers’ Market brings together everyone from London-based craft brewers to fishermen from the Norfolk coast and Kentish asparagus farmers. Top tip: arrive promptly to score the best goods.
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