The modern side of Greenwich – what to see and the best spots on the riverside
History is densely packed in Greenwich. It was once a favourite summer residence of British monarchs, then an important naval HQ, centred around the former Royal Naval College with its twin domes. It boasts some of the grandest Georgian architecture in the city, built by wealthy Londoners who favoured Greenwich’s tucked-away feel over the fast pace of the city centre.
Centuries may have passed but the neighbourhood still retains that calm air and has, in recent years, become a favourite weekend destination, with visitors flocking to its market, park and historic pubs. There are of course a few tourist traps to avoid, so we’ve sifted through to find the best that Greenwich has to offer, including independent shops and spots for a riverside drink that represent a modern side to this historic ‘hood.
SEE
1. Meridian House
One art historian called this building the only town hall in London whose architecture truly embodied its time. Meridian House was formerly the Greenwich Town Hall and was built in the art deco style by Clifford Culpin in 1939. Less than 40 years later, it ceased to be a government seat and has had several incarnations since, including as a concert hall and a dance school. Sadly the building is now unoccupied and therefore not accessible, but its tower – an ever-visible and reassuring presence in Greenwich – offers much to gawp at from below.
2. The O2
Located at the top of the Greenwich Peninsula, the Richard Rogers-designed arena is arguably a sight as familiar to Londoners as St Paul’s dome or the Gherkin. Originally called the Millennium Dome, it was built to house the ‘Millennium Experience’ exhibition that would hail the year 2000. The show itself was nowhere near as frequented or well-received as organisers had expected, something which marred the building’s reputation by association, and it is only recently that it has been rehabilitated as the O2 arena and shopping complex. Love it or hate it, it’s a masterly feat of design and engineering, with few other buildings like it in the world.
3. Queen’s House
We know this is supposed to be a modern guide to Greenwich, but to miss this is to miss one of the best buildings in London. The symmetrical white pile at the centre of Greenwich is the first fully neoclassical building in England, commissioned in the Palladian style in 1616 by Anne of Denmark, James I’s queen, from Inigo Jones (the namesake of The Modern House’s sister agency, Inigo). It wasn’t completed until 1635 and its courtly life was short-lived, falling into great disrepair during the ensuing civil war. Fortunately, it has undergone extensive renovations (including a bespoke ceiling design by artist Richard Wright) and reopened to the public in 2016 as an art gallery. Entry is free of charge.
SHOP
4. Royal Hill Fine Foods
The cluster of independent grocers on the corner of Royal Hill and The Circus offers everything you need to stock the fridge and pantry. Ellis & Jones specialises in seafood, whether you’re after octopus or wild sea bass; The Cheeseboard offers cheese, wine and baked goods; Drings is the sort of top-notch old-school butchers that pessimists associate with a bygone age; and the Creaky Shed has fresh fruit and veg aplenty.
EAT
5. Riverside pubs
A sunset pint on the Greenwich riverfront is hard to beat. There are some dozen pubs in all to choose from in Greenwich but our favourites are The Cutty Sark, a 17th-century haunt that feels much like the inside of an old ship; the Trafalgar Tavern, which has a large outdoor terrace right on the cobbles overlooking the river; and the Old Brewery, set within the shady grounds of the Old Royal Naval College.
6. 15grams
15grams opened in 2020, right in the middle of the pandemic. Despite the inauspicious times, it has quickly won a loyal and steady following with its small-batch coffee (which ensures that the farmers they work with are paid 25-times more than the standard fairtrade price).
7. Goddards
Eels are a traditional, if somewhat acquired, taste across many cultures, countries and regions, from Japan to Canada. They have had a resurgence of late and found their way into Michelin-star restaurants, but in Goddards the eel takes a more humble, classic form: in a pie, served with mash and gravy.
DO
8. Greenwich Park
The part-wild, part-manicured expanse of Greenwich Park is the heart of the neighbourhood, with ponds, rose gardens, a cricket green and ample space for a picnic or game of frisbee. It used to be a royal hunting ground, home to ancient oaks and a population of deer. (The oaks are still around, while the deer now live in a conservation area at the south end of the park.) The view from the Royal Observatory, which marks Greenwich Mean Time, is well worth the climb: it’s one of the protected sight-lines of London and offers a sweeping vista from The Shard to the 02.
9. Greenwich Market
Unlike most London markets, Greenwich’s is open throughout the week, with a varying rotation of vendors across food, antiques, and independent art and craft. On weekdays you’ll find more of the latter, but come Friday and the weekend, the area is packed with booths selling oysters, empanadas, pulled pork and sushi – plus much more. There is also an array of independent shops occupying the niches around the courtyard, from framers and shoemakers to florists and art galleries.
BUY
10. Royal Hill, London SE10
While the near-original façade of this four-bedroom home pays homage to its late Georgian heritage, the interior has been given a contemporary transformation thanks to design practice KTB Architecture. A highlight of the sensitive renovation is the glazed kitchen, which combines a glass ceiling with bare-bricked walls. The home sits neatly between two Grade II-listed buildings in the sought-after West Greenwich conversation area.
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