A local’s guide to Forest Hill – from the Horniman Museum to modernist architecture
When London’s infamous Great Exhibition Hall was moved from Hyde Park to Crystal Palace in the mid-19th century, the once-secluded, leafy southern side of the river saw terraces of houses quickly pop up in clusters nearby. One such cluster is Forest Hill: a now-bustling area arguably best known for the much-loved Horniman Museum and Gardens, with its alpacas, giant gourds and bandstand.
And while there’s an abundance of parks, open green spaces and gothic woodlands to roam, it’s no coincidence that ‘hill’ found its way into this suburb’s name. If you’re accustomed to getting around London on two wheels (or on foot), be prepared for some very steep inclines when visiting Forest Hill. What you will get back in return, however, are some extraordinary views of the city skyline and the joy of effortlessly coming back down the other side. Our guide to the area includes several architectural case studies, a hefty yet idyllic walking tour of the locality and its neighbours, and the independent stores and grocers of its community-centric high street, Dartmouth Road.
SEE
1. Dawson Heights
It’s hard to miss the towering Dawson Heights when you are meandering about in the peak points of hilly south-east London. Designed in the 1960s by Kate Macintosh when she was just 28 years old and working for Southwark Council, it was built to solve a housing crisis at the time. The distinctive puzzle-like building appears to be slotted together like little Lego pieces – the structure of which cleverly ensures each split-level flat has maximum natural light. When you’re up at the Horniman Museum (more on this later) you’ll be able to catch a brilliant close-range view of the post-war building.
2. Taymount Grange
The architecture enthusiasts among us should be sure to make a stop at Taymount Grange, an Art Deco apartment block designed by architect George Bertram Carter. It’s tucked away in Forest Hill’s residential streets and is on the grounds of the original Queen’s Club tennis courts. With its green metal grid windows and white-painted stucco outer, Taymount Grange has retained its unmistakable modernist details of the 1930s.
3. Havelock Walk Studios
Havelock Walk Studios is a local collective of painters, sculptors, photographers and printmakers. Stroll down the cobbled streets lined with bunting and you will find an abundance of artists’ studios, community projects and creative wonders. Their biannual open studios are an excellent opportunity to meet and talk to some of the artists and locals – and are ideal if you’re an advocate for buying local and supporting independent businesses.
4. Walter Segal Houses
Take a short stroll towards Honor Oak Park and you will come across both Walters Way and Segal Close. Curious to look at, these geometric, timber-framed houses were built by a small group of volunteers in the 1980s, as part of a scheme run by Lewisham Council. The then-derelict land they sit on, deemed too hilly for your average house building, was offered up to people in the area who needed a house and were willing to build their own, with just a simple plan and guidance from architect Walter Segal. As a result, the simply built collection of houses sit on stilts and are an important case study of self-built architecture and community empowerment.
EAT
5. Bona
Could this be the best sourdough pizza in the postcode? Locals would argue that it is. Bona has the feel of a friendly home trattoria, serving classic sourdough pizzas and a weekly specials menu. If you’re feeling especially hungry, try their sourdough cheesy garlic bread to start, which is complete with a nduja honey dip and a side of meatballs. And their fresh sourdough loaves are baked to perfection – pick one up before they sell out.
6. Pantry
Part small plates restaurant, part delicatessen, Pantryis a husband and wife-run local favourite. Offering coffee in the morning and natural wine in the evening, plus seasonal British produce for the kitchen cupboard, their light and airy eatery is an easy weekday win. Keep an eye out online for their ongoing programme of food-related classes – whether that be oyster shucking or fresh pasta making – with a glass of orange wine in hand, no doubt.
7. Aga’s Little Deli
Aga’s Little Deli is – well, the name says it all really. If you’re in need of a few last-minute additions on your way to a dinner party or simply want a proper lunchtime sandwich and a coffee, Aga’s is the place. Their cheese toastie will easily cure a hangover, and their summertime gelato is the real deal. Aga and her team are always more than happy to help you put together a hamper or a Mons cheeseboard.
SHOP
8. Yolly
The beautiful baskets of flowers piled up outside florist Yolly’s front door on Dartmouth Road almost never fail to make passers-by stop for a moment of quiet admiration. Each week, Yolly and her small team pull together seasonal blooms using flowers from local growers and British farms – all with an astute eye for colour, form and quality. Their considered assortment of scents, botanical soaps and books inside make for the perfect last-minute gift, too.
9. Olives & more
Olives & more is a specialist deli dedicated to Spanish olives. Their shop is filled with a range of extra virgin olive oils, chocolates and an impressive selection of olives – which isn’t surprising, given that Spain has almost 300 different varieties of the latter. Wednesdays in the shop are reserved for tastings; an evening of learning about a plethora of virgin olive oils paired with a menu of Spanish tapas, from cod brandade and beetroot gazpacho to Tarta De Santiago. Perfecto.
10. Farr and Wyde
Whether you’re into mid-century Danish teak dressers or vintage Conran lighting, Farr and Wyde should be able to help you out. The small shop is tastefully crammed with an eclectic mix of furniture and antiques for the home. These might include striking Italian dining chairs from the ’60s, Fornasetti-style occasional tables or vintage quilts – plus, a handful of bits for the garden, too.
11. Projekt 26
The Polish School of Posters was an underground movement born in an era of post-war oppression. At a time where the only form of art allowed was posters and propaganda, the graphic works that peaked in the 1950s and 1960s are characterised by their bright, bold and expressive colours.
Projekt 26 shines some light on the movement. Harriet and Sylwia’s extensive collection of Polish posters, many of which were produced in short runs, showcases some of the most prolific artists and graphic designers of the time. Drop them a line for a chat and to book a private viewing of their studio; you can also find them at several flea markets around London.
12. Beetroot&Beans
Beetroot&Beans is Forest Hill’s plastic-free, zero-waste greengrocers. Grab your jars, bags, bottles and Tupperware to fill with essentials for the pantry and more. Along with fresh fruit and veg, they stock jars of local honey and pickles, and even offer detergents and organic soaps for the kitchen and bathroom. If you catch one of the team for a chat, they’re more than happy to get something specific for you on request.
DO
13. Horniman Museum and Gardens
When a young Frederick John Horniman inherited his father’s rather successful tea business, his lifelong hobby of hoarding and collecting became an affordable reality. So he decided that Forest Hill, and soon enough, the Horniman Museum, would become a cultural institution in which to house and share his findings with the public. To this day, it holds an extensive and eclectic collection of musical instruments, anthropological artefacts and taxidermy animals accumulated from around the world. Perhaps the most famous of all – something of a mascot to Forest Hill – is the behemoth walrus, famously overstuffed without a single wrinkle on its skin by taxidermy preppers in 1886 who had never seen such a creature.
The museum officially opened in 1901 and there’s something for everyone here – even an aquarium. The gardens are just as splendid. The Victorian bandstand has views that look out over London for miles – and is the stage for open-air jazz gigs in the summer –, there’s a butterfly house, a cafe and conservatory, a medicinal and a kitchen garden for scratching up on your horticultural knowledge, and you might even spot the occasional goat, rabbit, or alpaca on its farm. On Sunday mornings, the gardens double up as a market, with independent traders offering local produce and weekly essentials.
14. St David Coffee House
The coffee at St David, located handily over the road from Forest Hill station, might just be the best around here. It’s from the team behind Browns in Brockley – you might recognise the colourful graphic motifs and illustrations on the takeaway cups – and their freshly baked pastries are hard to say no to in the morning. The charming space is full of lush plants and the team behind the counter are some of the friendliest in the business. Catch their mobile coffee van at local markets nearby, such as Brockley Market.
15. Sylvan Post
You might not notice straight away that local pub Sylvan Post is housed in the vaults of a 1960s post office. Drop in for a weekday cocktail and a spot of pub quizzing, or grab a fish finger sandwich for lunch with a pint of pale ale from Peckham neighbours Brick Brewery. And on Sunday, their Bloody Mary and a good, proper roast really are first class.
16. Green Chain Walk: Section 11
The Green Chain walk was created in 1977 to protect a handful of south-east London’s beautiful and bountiful green spaces from development. Passing through five London boroughs and divided into 11 mapped sections, the walking tour starts at the River Thames, taking you through open spaces and parks teeming with wildlife.
The final section – number 11 – of the walk starts in Crystal Palace Park, taking you through Forest Hill’s very own Horniman Museum and Gardens, One Tree Hill and Sydenham Hill Woods (perfect for a touch of wild garlic foraging in summer) and finally ends at Nunhead Cemetery. Keep your eyes peeled for the little green signposts on the way, and a pub pit stop along the way might not be so much of a problem around here.
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