The best of Kensal Rise and Queen’s Park, north-west London
Queen’s Park and Kensal Rise get a lot of things right: a coveted mix of Victorian and Edwardian houses, welcoming residents who are well versed in both good design and good eating, a devotion to the independent and a bevy of great transport links – not that you necessarily need them to seek out entertainment. Though both areas are not traditionally considered bellwethers for the cutting edge, their low-profile pace of life allows them to hum at a far softer frequency than their tourist-driven neighbours. Indeed, much of the attraction comes from this downbeat, village feel, which is anchored by a slew of community-focused ventures and creates an enviable sense of order, balance and sophistication that is hard to equal in a capital of endless change.
An irresistible magnet for families pursuing more inner-city space and the rich medley of period homes, Queen’s Park is an enclave for prime real estate imbued with personality and history. It’s further defined by the always reliable Salusbury Road – the main drag populated by cafes and artisanal kitchen-supply stores – as well as old charms, such as the area’s namesake park. Spilling into it from the west is refined Kensal Rise whose leafy, undisturbed streets have made it popular with the red-carpet crowd and front-rowers who come here to lay down their roots. Action is found on Chamberlayne Road, which plays host to boutique shops, great dining and high-end pubs. Here’s our guide to the best of both neighbourhoods, from no-fuss delis and a splendid bookstore to the tables to reserve and a Sunday farmer’s market.
SEE
1. Lonsdale Road
Though set off the main thoroughfare that slices through Queen’s Park, traffic-free Lonsdale Road has a sequestered quality that’s helped it subtly become one of the city’s most attractive restaurant rows. Among the converted stables and repair shops include a small portfolio of splendid destinations, such as Carmel (more on that below), the Australian-influenced Milk Beach, and Lino, a minimal-waste cocktail bar. When the weather takes a turn for the better and diners spill out on to the cobbled street, there are few better places to enjoy the at-ease spirit of Queen’s Park.
2. Lexi Cinema
Though London is a metropolis in relentless development, indie cinema The Lexi, whose readograph has become an icon of the Kensal Rise landscape since opening in 2008, remains a resilient community fixture. During the pandemic, local architects RISE Design Studio reconditioned the premises, adding raw plaster and pared-down signage by graphic designer Joan Zalacain. It also salvaged the former Edwardian theatre’s original pine parquet flooring and transformed parts of the rear car park into a bar and a second screen with emerald-green seating. The programme places equal emphasis on the mainstream as it does the arthouse and international, while the all-volunteer staff and a wildflower roof, which has replaced the biodiversity lost during the construction process, round out the close-knit spirit.
EAT
3. Carmel
Guided by chef Josh Katz and front-of-house Mattia Bianchi – the dynamite duo behind Berber and Q in Haggerston and Shawarma Bar in Clerkenwell – the colourful menu at this all-day Queen’s Park restaurant takes influence from the east Mediterranean kitchen. At lunch, plump for the scorched mackerel with kombu vinegar and chilli plum, or a sourdough flatbread cooked in the tabun oven and showered with spiced lamb, Aleppo chilli and sumac yoghurt. For dinners – which highlight seafood, meat and vegetables in equal measure – there’s a strong focus on wood roasting and live-fire cooking. The interplay of exposed brick, hanging plants, plush banquettes and Ercol seating heighten the warm, homely experience.
4. Ida
The features of a textbook Italian restaurant are all here to see at Ida: a family operation with Fellini posters and sepia photos on the walls, white tablecloths and a high-decibel ambience once the candles are lit. Dishes change with the seasons and move between regions – meats and stews nod to Italy’s north; fish and vibrant vegetables are a paean to the south – but underpinning it all is the emphasis on home-style from-scratch cooking: pasta and gnocchi are rolled on the day and the ragù is prepared in the traditional Marchigiano style, with hearts and gizzards.
5. Wildcard
Occupying a light-filled corner on one of Kensal Rise’s most loved streets, Wildcard pulls in a dedicated local following. They come here to sip on its coffee made with single-origin beans, available by the bag and made in collaboration with Birmingham-based roaster Quarter House Coffee, which sources premium green beans from countries including El Salvador and Peru.
6. Vicki’s
Since it first set up shop in Little Venice in 1985, family-owned Vicki’s has championed the notion that clean eating can be both disciplined and indulgent. The focus here is less on cleanses and cure-all elixirs and more about tried-and-true combos. Its produce, meanwhile, has been handled with reverence: for years, its meat has been supplied by free-range butchers O’Farrells, while the deli-like glass counter is filled with seasonal food. Past hits include a piri piri chicken burrito with sesame coconut rice, beets with housemade coleslaw and tzatziki; and an avocado, hummus and feta quesadilla.
SHOP
7. Scarlet & Violet
For nearly two decades, Scarlet & Violet has been perfuming Chamberlayne Road with the irresistible fragrance of British-grown flora and foliage. Owner Vic Brotherson, whose love of nature stems from her upbringing in Cumbria, works with the seasons – blossom in spring, hellebores in winter – and every one of her creations is tailored to her customer’s tastes. The informal, country stylings, which appear as though they’ve escaped from a Dutch still life, have propelled the shop into one of the most important of its kind in the country.
8. Queen’s Park Books
The Fergiani family, beloved booksellers and publishers in both Libya and London, debuted this bottle-green store a decade after their first shop in the West End opened in 1994 – and it has remained steadfast against the rise of e-commerce and mega-retailers. It’s particularly celebrated for its approachable staff, who draw upon their literary knowledge to create a pleasing experience for customers, and the curated 10,000-title list that jumps across genres. There is also a particular emphasis on children’s books and the power that the printed word can have on young imaginations.
9. The Salusbury Winestore
Like Paris and San Sebastián, London treats its wine shops with profound respect – and this independent retailer has long been a favourite haunt for locals seeking premium bottles. The extensive space, the interior of which is notable for its statement glass display, sells 400 labels sourced from traditional vineyards and more offbeat producers (the SP68 bianco by Occhipinti is a contemporary classic). There’s also a tightly edited selection of artisanal spirits, including Nikka’s From The Barrel whisky, and the constantly rotating lineup of beers and lagers – 3 Fonteinen and Braybrooke Keller among them – are also revered.
10. Salusbury Deli
London’s affinity for shopping local sharpened even further during the pandemic, and the variety on offer has never been so rich, from the Turkish food markets on Green Lanes to the Vietnamese retailers in Hackney. Once you’ve stocked up on a few bottles at The Salusbury Winestore, soak it all up with organic-driven sustenance at the next-door deli, a fixture since 1999. From the extensive stock of pantry staples, we’re particularly drawn to Sunday Charcuterie’s rare-breed salamis, Philotimo’s thyme-flavoured honey, and Costèllo & Hellerstein’s single-origin truffles. The takeaway counter, often filled with fist-size arancini and sizeable escalopes, is also worth a browse.
11. Supra
When it opened in Notting Hill in 1995, Supra was one of the first to bring streetwear to this polished part of town. Having seen its core clientele move north to Kensal Rise in the years following, the shop chose Chamberlayne Road as its second base. There’s a broad yet considered mix of the established and the up-and-coming – MHL’s relaxed knits, cotton staples by Sunspel and chunky sneakers courtesy of Karhu – and part of the appeal is rifling through the heavily loaded rails in search of the ideal piece.
DO
12. Queen’s Park
Once the host ground for the Royal Agricultural Show, Queen’s Park was laid out between 1886 and 1887 according to Alexander McKenzie’s informal masterplan that plays into the area’s love of the low-key. As he did at Finsbury Park and that of Alexandra Palace, McKenzie eschewed the early Victorian preference for rigidity and architectural features, instead favouring an organic flow of pathways, with two central circular areas fringed by dense shrubbery and thick trees. Strolls in the ornamental garden are a fine place to reset the mind on a sharp winter morning; during long summer hours, book a tennis court to work on your backhand, or simply pick up a delicious falafel box and a bev from its licensed community cafe and watch as the community flocks to the open greenery.
13. Queen’s Park Farmers’ Market
Is there a lovelier way to spend a bright Sunday morning than with a stroll around a farmers’ market? Queen’s Park’s 40-stand version takes place in the car park of an Edwardian primary school and plays a key part in perpetuating London’s enthusiasm for all things seasonal and provenance-led, showcasing a remarkable selection of the city’s most celebrated producers. Keep an eye out for a segment of the Royal Bassett Blue from Brinkworth Dairy, one of Bagnell Farm’s well-marbled cuts, or a cold-smoked fish from Charlie’s Trout.
14. Grand Union Canal
There’s no doubt that the Thames, with its surfeit of cultural hits on both flanks, has a firm grip on the popular imagination when it comes to London’s waterways, but a lot of the city’s simple, everyday pleasures – early-morning runs, post-work walks, height-of-summer cycling – are seen on the peaceful banks of Grand Union Canal. Local wisdom dictates you should start your tour at Kensal Green cemetery – one the country’s most handsome burial grounds, where the mix of wide avenues, rare flora and gothic monuments give it a cinematic quality – moving eastward to take a pit-stop at the Union Tavern, where the taps zero-in on craft beers. Next, keep going on to the stuccoed villas and narrowboats of Little Venice. At this point, you can join Regent’s Canal, which will take you all the way to London Docklands.
See our Kensal Rise and Queen’s Park listings.
RELATED ON THE MODERN HOUSE
Our Guide to Oxford: cinnamon buns, honey-hued domes and small plates in the 'city of dreaming spires'
Our guide to Kentish Town: Technicolor townhouses, natural wine and nature in north London
Take a Dip: London’s best swimming spots – from lakes to lidos
Our Guide to Dulwich: from modernist architecture to master paintings
Plate in the Sun: London’s best restaurants for alfresco dining
Our guide to Herne Hill and Tulse Hill: vibrant markets and outdoor swimming in south London
Best Buds: the most beautiful garden centres in London
Good Start: the best breakfasts in London
Our guide to Camden Town and Primrose Hill: from panoramic views to a community ceramics space
Nice Slice: the best pizza in London