A local’s tour of Leyton: a creative corner with East End charm
The first thing that will strike you about Leyton is its strong sense of community spirit – it’s one of those rare pockets of London where you’ll be hard-pressed to pop to the local grocer or go for a pint without pausing for a chat with a familiar face. Before the 2012 London Olympics, Waltham Forest Council enlisted Jan Kattein Architects to give the area a refresh, which saw the restoration of its Victorian shopping parades, incorporating suitably flamboyant touches such as boldly painted walls and revamped shop signs. Leyton has since seen an influx of exciting small businesses popping up.
No longer overshadowed by its E17 neighbour, Walthamstow, Leyton now finds a perfect balance between large green spaces (it doesn’t get much greener than Epping Forest), rows of independent shops and traditional East End pubs existing harmoniously alongside organic wine bars, and a buzzy food scene that reflects the diversity of its residents. It’s no wonder the area has become a favourite for families and creative professionals alike. To boot, you can reach Leyton via both the overground and Central line, making it extremely accessible to the rest of the city. Need further convincing? Read on to discover our guide to the best of E10 and its border.
SEE
1. Host of Leyton
A lovingly restored Victorian corner shop, conveniently situated between coffee hotspot Perky Blenders and Leyton Midland station, Host of Leyton is a multipurpose venue that hosts a programme of public events and is available to hire for photoshoots. It’s the brainchild of Leyton locals James Pallister, a writer with a background in design journalism, and architect Nicola Read. The simple yet beautifully renovated space has white walls, large windows letting in plenty of light, and a focal-point fireplace, all housed behind a dark-grey façade. Previous events include a Modern Potter ceramics sale, a Phlow yoga retreat, and sourdough-breadmaking workshops by Julia Georgallis of The Bread Companion.
2. Patchworks
In the heart of E10, tucked away off busy Church Road, you’ll find part furniture factory, part creative space Patchworks – a place to meet, eat, drink, work and play. Inside, brick walls and concrete floors are enlivened with oversized plants and a brightly painted piano that you might have seen on Instagram, while events range from vintage markets and martial-art workshops to parent-and-baby meet-ups and open-mic nights. Or, you could just pop in for a really great coffee, where you’ll be joined by freelance workers on their laptops, mothers and toddlers, and workmen on their tea break – a snapshot of Leyton, really.
3. Turning Earth
Turning Earth is a ceramics hub housed in the 8,500sq ft top-floor space of an old hardware factory. It features a large, open-plan studio with white brick walls and hanging plants, where artists, dedicated hobbyists and beginners work together in a community environment. A host of classes are available for anyone over the age of 16, whether you’re a newcomer or have more experience, and include both hand-building techniques and wheel throwing, as well as specific projects, such as tile making.
4. Wanstead Park
The natural beauty of this Grade II*-listed park offers a welcome respite from urban east London: there are lush green expanses, lakes and woods filled with bluebells come springtime. But there’s also architecture and culture to be found too: stop off at the Temple – a building that once formed part of the Wanstead House estate – where you can visit art and history displays exploring the story of Wanstead Park through the Roman, Regency and Victorian periods to the present day. Close to the remains of Wanstead House lies the Grade I-listed St. Mary’s church, an architectural treasure still open to the public. Designed by Thomas Hardwick in 1790 in the neo-classical style, it’s considered one of the finest Georgian churches in the country – its virtually unaltered state includes the original pews, green slate roof, wooden clock tower and cupola.
5. Francis Road
If you’ve been recommended a place to eat, drink or shop in Leyton, chances are it’s on Francis Road. The heart of Leyton Village, it’s a leafy, largely residential street where you’re likely to find most Leytoners hanging out at the weekend. When Jan Kattein Architects began renovation on Francis Road, the team called upon the help of a local primary school; the children interviewed retailers before designing their own shops in shoe boxes, working with the firm on ideas for branding and shopfront designs. Today, the recently pedestrianised street is blossoming with independent businesses, including a record shop, sustainable gift shop, deli and wine bar, and bakery – but more on these later…
EAT
6. Morny
One of the jewels in Francis Road’s crown, Morny bakery is at the tip of every local’s tongue when you ask them for a recommendation. The brains behind it met at a pottery course at Turning Earth and their creativity is apparent here: each skilfully created pastry on the counter is a sight to behold. Treats include brie, grape and rosemary brioche, blackberry-crumble soft-serve donuts, piña colada cruffins and twice-baked Bombay croissants filled with coconut frangipane, sweet mango chutney and cardamon white chocolate – all almost too beautiful to eat.
7. Singburi
Singburi is a small family-run Thai restaurant that has reached legendary status among London foodies. The no-frills eatery doesn’t even have a website; its only online presence is an Instagram account that posts a photo of a blackboard with the daily specials written in chalk – think gangluang (razor clams and spicy pineapple curry), whole curried crab, yam sao nam (rice-paper salad) and tom jeud dok mai (pork soup with dried lily flower and bean curd) – all served on mismatch crockery. Don’t forget to BYOB.
8. Filly Brook
Filly Brook is famed for its beer and wine, as well as rotating chefs’ residencies. In the past, that has included Japanese street-food brand Sho Foo Doh and Pan-Asian chef Sophie Tang. It has 18 beers on tap, including those by local brewers Gravity Well and Solvay Society – both so local they are within a short walking distance – while the wine focus is on biodynamic bottles from around the globe. Music, however, is at the heart of Filly Brook; co-owner Simon Purnell runs two record labels, so when there isn’t a live performance, you can be sure to discover some new tunes playing out over the sound system.
9. Marmelo
Marmelo is a sustainably minded food company and store based on Francis Road, offering up tasty dishes and staple ingredients. Here you’ll find a wide selection of cheeses and meat chosen with great care from small farms in Yorkshire, seasonal vegetables from independent producers, as well as its own range of home-brewed fermented Kombucha drinks and other kitchen essentials. Its catering service, meanwhile, which can be hired for shoots, film and events, aims to make the experience of eating on set more ethical, with fresh and healthy food served on biodegradable plates.
SHOP
10. Dreamhouse Records
Dreamhouse Records on Francis Road is run by local Jon Clifford, who worked in music promotion until the pandemic hit, giving him the chance to finally fulfil a lifelong dream of opening such a store. He stocks vinyl, cassettes and merch spanning a vast range of genres from around the world, as well as a mix of new releases, back catalogues and reissues, and he’ll even order anything you want that isn’t on the shelves. Pick up an Unholy Bagel while you’re there and enjoy the expertly selected records spinning in the (soon-to-be licensed) shop, while mulling over which album you’re going to add to your collection.
11. Pinch la Deli
Suitably signposted with a gesturing hand painted on to its forest-green façade, Pinch la Deli is the place to pick up the very best store-cupboard essentials and treats for the fridge. Specialty Japanese products, such as Kewpie mayonnaise, kimchi and seaweed salad, are sold alongside freshly made pasta and burrata, as well as jars of Sicilian sauces and other curious condiments. Bonus points: Pinch la Deli has plenty of space for you to eat in store, too; except to be tempted by croissants in the morning, rustic sandwiches in the afternoon and fine wine in the evening.
12. Monument Store
Monument Store is the place to go for art-led objects and furniture. Founded by former set designer Leah Forsyth-Steel and Victoria Spicer, who has a background in museum exhibition curation, the duo sources items that have both personality and permanence, and are guided by form, material and craftsmanship. Peruse the collection by appointment at their showroom, where you might just come across a rare Martin Freyer vase, an abstract painting by Serge Poliakoff or a 1930s sculptural marble table. Some pieces are available to hire too – previous clients include Burberry and Gucci.
13. Yardarm
As its website puts it, deli and wine bar Yardarm takes its name from “a seafaring phrase referring to the time of day it’s acceptable to have your first ration of booze”. The family-run shop has shelves jam-packed with wine, beer, freshly baked loaves of sourdough bread, countless varieties of chutney and pâté, ice cream, handmade dumplings and many more things you’ll want to stock your kitchen cupboards with. While you’re there, sample one of the wines they sell by the glass – sit out front and join in on the lively atmosphere of Francis Road on which it lies, or out back in the south-facing garden with olive trees and a grapevine.
DO
14. Fit As
Design-loving athletes might already be a fan of Ed Conway’s architectural running tours, in which the personal trainer takes participants on a 5km jog past some of London’s best examples of brutalist, modernist and mid-century buildings. When he’s not on the move, however, catch him at his gym, Fit As, situated under Leyton Midland Road’s railway arches. Classes range from high-intensity circuit training to children’s dance sessions, all of which take place in a space more pleasing than your average fitness centre – the framed vintage Olympic posters are a particular highlight. Bonus points: forget mirror selfies – the Instagram account supplies more retro-leaning workout inspiration too.
15. New Spitalfields Market
Wholesale fruit, vegetable and flower specialist, New Spitalfields Market is not for the fainthearted. The UK’s highest turnover horticultural market is open midnight to 9am, Monday to Saturday – as a member of the general public it’s best to visit from 3am onwards after the main rush. The purpose-built complex is home to around 120 businesses, many of which are second, third and even fourth-generation sellers, keen to share a story while you shop. Whether you’re after the sweetest exotic fruit, freshly cut flowers for your next dinner-party setting, hard-to-find Chinese, Mediterranean, and Afro-Caribbean goods, or simply top-quality seasonal British produce, you’ll get them here at extremely competitive prices – and you’re sure to meet a few characters along the way.
16. Wanstead Flats
One of the largest expanses of common land in urban London, Wanstead Flats is a behemoth area of open grassland perfect for running, picnics, playing sports or dog walks. The Jubilee Pond was redesigned as a conservation and wildlife feature in 2002 and is an ideal spot for a long, head-clearing stroll with plenty of nature to enjoy on your way round. Iconic Leytonstone landmarks, the Fred Wigg and John Walsh towers – 15-storey identical twins, built in the 1960s – jut into the flats’ skyline on one side and there are crystal-clear views of the city on the other.
17. Epping Forest
There’s something truly magical about the nearby Epping Forest, which Waltham Forest residents proudly claim as their second back garden – home to 55,000 ancient trees and so large it takes approximately two-three hours to walk around. Give your amble some direction by heading towards the Oyster Shack & Seafood Bar at the heart of the forest, where fresh produce is available daily. There is also an array of cosy, traditional pubs bordering its edge (the Forest Gate Inn is an excellent choice), so you can treat yourself to a well-earned drink at the end of your amble. You can’t take a trip to Epping Forest without stopping off at Hollow Ponds at the very southern tip – a walk around the picturesque waterways is good for the soul, plus you can hire a rowing boat in the summer months.
18. Queen Elizabeth Olympic Park
Opened as the world’s spotlight shone on London for the 2012 Olympic and Paralympic Games, Queen Elizabeth Olympic Park is now a destination for sport, entertainment, culture, education and relaxation. Go for a swim at the spectacular London Aquatics Centre, the training ground of Tom Daley that was designed by Zaha Hadid, enjoy a stroll around the London Blossom Garden, a memorial to commemorate those who lost their lives to the coronavirus, and take an exhilarating 40-second trip on the world’s tallest tunnel slide. Meanwhile, the newly opened East Bank will soon be home to a new site for the V&A, a 550-seat Sadler’s Wells theatre, a state-of-the-art BBC Music studio and new campuses for leading universities London College of Fashion and UCL.
See our Leyton listings.
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