A guide to St Leonards-on-Sea, East Sussex: from beachfront cafes to contemporary art
Originally laid out as a purpose-built resort by renowned architect James Burton in the 19th century, St Leonards-on-Sea was cemented as a jewel in the British coastal crown when Princess Victoria and her mother, the Duchess of Kent, stayed here during the winter of 1834. Don’t be fooled, however, by its royal patronage, stuccoed fronts and symmetrical façades; the charm of St Leonards lies in its resolutely offbeat and laid-back spirit.
Often mentioned in the same breath as its battle-worn neighbour Hastings, St Leonards has a resolute identity of its own. Eccentricity is encouraged and the individualist attitude of the town is felt in every corner, where picture-perfect seaside views are the backdrop for excellent restaurants, brilliant boutiques and an exceptionally creative art scene. Here’s our guide to the best of St Leonards-on-Sea, including which galleries to visit, restaurants to eat at and beaches to walk along.
SEE
1. Marine Court
St Leonards isn’t just about the cornicing and sash windows of its Regency architecture. The Grade II-listed Marine Court sits proudly on the town’s seafront and is a remarkable example of Art Deco design. Conceived by Kenneth Dalgleish and Roger K. Pullen, the housing block isn’t only an early pioneer of steel-frame construction – it’s rather jolly to look at too. Its form was inspired by the Queen Mary, a transatlantic cruise ship: its balconies mimic the promenade deck, while the rounded architecture imitates the boat’s curves. Marine Court opened for residents in 1938 when it was celebrated for being the tallest of its kind in the country at 14 stories high.
2. Lucy Bell Gallery
Alongside her husband, darkroom printer Robin, Lucy Bell founded her gallery in 2001, in the nearby town of Battle. Back then, it was called The Independent Photography Gallery – and while the name has since changed, the ethos of the gallery has very much stayed the same. Now situated on Norman Road, Lucy Bell Gallery remains independent and showcases fine photography from the region, from renowned industry names to new talent alike.
3. Big Yin
The brainchild of artist Euan Roberts and his partner, Ruth Spence, Big Yin is a Black-owned gallery championing work by underrepresented artists. As Euan says, the venture was born out of “the DIY juvenile-delinquent spirit of needing to blaze one’s own path”. Billy Connolly fans may ponder the name, which is in fact a homage to Euan’s own Scottish heritage.
Here, the work of local talents, such as Luke Edward Sothcott, Kelly Jessiman and Euan himself, sits alongside that by artists based further afield, including Layla Andrews in London and Studio Lenca in Margate. The common denominator, however, is art that’s full of personality and graphic punch.
4. Project 78
Another gem on Norman Road, Project 78 is a contemporary art gallery dedicated to the work of local talent – no matter the medium. While the pieces that hang on its walls are ever-changing, there’s one thing remains constant: Project 78 has its own brilliant podcast, with episodes featuring conversations between the gallery’s founder, Patrick Jones, and the artists and curators behind its exhibitions. It’s a brilliant touch, giving listeners the opportunity to get to know the neighbourhood’s creatives on a more personal level.
5. Hastings Pier
Sitting neatly in the middle of Hastings and St Leonard’s is Hastings Pier. Built in 1872 by Victorian engineer Eugenius Birch, it rather impressively stood through wars and storm damage, before it was sadly destroyed by a fire in 2010. Hastings Pier Charity subsequently fought to revive the beloved local landmark – and with great success too. In 2016, the structure was rebuilt to a contemporary design by architecture practice dRMM, which spoke to the residents about their needs to ensure the new construction would be an asset to the community. The resulting pier, made sustainably from expanses of elegant Ekki wood, is a triumph – so much so that it won the prestigious Stirling Prize in 2017.
6. Regency Architecture
St Leonards is predominately made up of terraces and squares of Regency housing, built by 19th-century developers and architects James Burton and his son, Decimus. Their original vision was to create ‘Bloomsbury-on-sea’, inspired by the work they’d both done in that corner of London, as well as in parts of Regent’s Park and St John’s Wood. Their considered Palladian architecture in St Leonards is best exemplified by the original waterfront homes on the marina and the splendid pastel-painted stucco mansions with wrought-iron verandas found all over town.
EAT
7. Goat Ledge
If you’re in pursuit of some quintessential seaside fun, make a beeline for the brightly coloured beachfront cafe Goat Ledge. There are no such animals to be found there now, but until the 19th century, stockmen would bring their farmyard friends down to the water, to an old rock reef that went by the name Goat Ledge. Today, the menu is all tasty fish baps and ice cream. Order to take away to the sand, or rent one of its beach huts: each is themed and acts as an individual private dining room on the seafront.
8. St Clement’s
Part of the allure of a seaside town is its fresh seafood, and St Clement’s is the ingredient-led restaurant doing it right. Its menu changes daily, depending on what the fishermen catch on their hauls, which are all done sustainably. Sourced from local butchers, farms and non-intensive dairies, the food is simple yet utterly delicious. If you’re lucky enough to see the specialty, lemon posset, on the menu, snap it up. Meanwhile, the complimentary freshly made soda bread is a lovely bonus.
9. Graze on Grand
The sea-facing Graze on Grand is one of the best spots in town for small plates with a view – and we’re not just talking about the water. It also doubles as an exhibition space, showcasing art by emerging creatives from St Leonards and Hastings. The food dips into Continental territory – think fish stews, Tuscan chicken, burrata with mint and peas – made with locally sourced ingredients, where available. This place also does excellent wine pairing and has a fantastic delicatessen, selling bottles to take away, along with condiments and other cupboard treats.
10. Heist
Heist is St Leonards’ brilliant indoor food market, situated in a former bank, which gives it its playful name. If the colourful façade doesn’t draw you in, the assortment of vendors should do the trick. There are Japanese delicacies at Arigato, sophisticated sausages at Wild Dogs, and oysters and natural wine at Boat Yard. Particularly good is Three Legs Brewery Co., which has a taproom offering locally crafted beer, as well as guest ales and lagers. Heist has variety in abundance so, with its communal seating, it’s ideal when diners of the same party fancy something different. Best of all, every business under this roof is local, independent and environmentally conscious.
SHOP
11. Kings Road
St Leonards is celebrated for its selection of furniture stores with a focus on mid-century design and vintage finds – and there’s no better place to browse than Kings Road, right in the middle of town. Head to Calneva to snap up 1950s and 1960s memorabilia; Twisted King Interiors for an excellent array of mid-century design; Kings Road Antiques for eclectic vintage homeware; and Pass Muster for upcycled furniture.
There are plenty of places to stop mid-shop for a bite and a beverage too, including Maker and Baker for sourdough goods, Farm Yard for sustainable seafood and wine and The Sleeper Store for freshly baked bagels stuffed with delicious fillings.
DO
12. St Leonards beach
St Leonards beach, also known as Marina beach, has a pretty shingle shore with pleasing sandy patches that make an appearance at low tide. We encourage a wander in either direction to make the most of the scenery. Take a leisurely stroll in one direction and you’ll find Hastings, where dramatic cliffs top the coastline. Alternatively, follow the coast for an hour and a half in the other direction to reach Bexhill-on-Sea, where the walk is made worthwhile by the Grade I-listed De La Warr Pavilion, arguably Britain’s finest example of interwar Streamline Moderne architecture.
The more adventurous needn’t worry either, as St Leonards has plenty of seaside activities to get stuck into. There is the Hastings and St Leonards sailing club in the marina, while kayaking, kitesurfing and paddleboarding clubs dot the waterfront.
13. Kino-Teatr
Kino-Teatr (pronounced Kee-no Tee-atra) has been at the heart of St Leonards cultural scene since it opened as the first purpose-built cinema in the town in 1913. Then known as the Kinema Palace, the building survived German bombs in the 1940s and attempts to transform it into both a bingo hall and a movie house for sex films.
Today, however, the beloved independent cinema, which shows an eclectic mix of film, live comedy and music, is run by art dealers Russell Baker and Olga Mamonova. Within the space, they also opened the Baker Mamonova Gallery, which displays Soviet realist and contemporary Russian art. While here, head to neighbourhood restaurant Parlour for a post-cinema burger – and maybe even a cocktail or two.
14. St Leonards Gardens
Following his work on Regent’s Park in London with architect John Nash, James Burton had his sights set on bringing a beautiful green space to St Leonards. In 1828, he created just that in St Leonards Gardens, which is framed by his exquisite Regency buildings. The peaceful pocket is certainly picturesque, thanks to its delightful assortment of plants, which promise year-round colour, and lily pond. It’s such a pretty picnic spot, in fact, it’s a fine alternative to the seafront.
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