The best of Brockley and Nunhead
The south-east London suburbs of Brockley and Nunhead lie on the borders of Lewisham and Southwark respectively – but although their boroughs differ, the same community spirit lies at their heart. That’s not all the neighbours have in common: both have plenty of spacious leafy parks, exceptional viewpoints due to their hilly landscapes and thriving high streets of independent shops and grocers – oh, and several traditional Victorian boozers.
What they lack in stops on the tube (instead, they run on either the Overground or National Rail), Brockley and Nunhead make up for in village-like charm – and that’s precisely what makes them worth the journey. With the vibrant art scene and nightlife of Peckham only a walk away, you really don’t need to leave once you’re in the zone. Our guide to the areas includes several walks that are perfect for crisp winter mornings and warm summer evenings alike, many good coffee spots and a retro cinema-cum-ballroom for disco dancing. Here’s the best of Brockley and Nunhead.
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1. Telegraph Hill – and its views
When you’re standing in the upper fields of Telegraph Hill Park, you get one of those epic views that truly puts life in London into perspective. In the summer, you can book out the tennis courts for a leisurely game followed by a relax on the grass. As the more cosy months roll in, nip into Irish pub Skehans on your way back down the hill for a pint – a local favourite with a charm and ease that is hard to resist.
2. Rivoli Ballroom
Entering the Rivoli Ballroom is like taking a step back into the 1950s. All vintage velvet décor and chandeliers, the ballroom is a popular venue for live music, the sprung dancefloor allowing for long evenings of disco and jiving. Keep your eyes peeled on their events page if you’re ready for an evening of funk or cabaret, or one of their regular pop-up cinema screenings. And if you’re in the market for learning a new skill or meeting new people in the area, the first Saturday of every month is reserved for ballroom and Latin dance evenings.
3. Crofton Park Community Library
Crofton Park Library is a community space run by volunteers, housing books, a cafe and several rooms to rent out for creative classes and workshops. Here you’ll find the likes of book clubs, yoga sessions, knitting groups and music recitals. For William Morris fans, the building itself is typically Arts and Crafts – a movement with principles based on high-quality materials, craftsmanship, function and uncomplicated design.
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4. Joyce
Just a stroll away from Brockley’s heart you’ll find Joyce, a welcoming neighbourhood bar serving organic wines, craft beers and small plates. A sibling to The Salthouse Bottle Shop around the corner (also worth a visit), Joyce similarly prides itself on championing independent British makers and stockists: from traditional Herefordshire ciders and Belgian-style ales from Bermondsey to biodynamic wines from the infamous Tillingham Estate in East Sussex. For the bookworms among us, Joyce hosts a monthly book club that can be dipped in and out of as takes your fancy. Literary chatter with a glass of wine? Yes, please.
5. Browns of Brockley
The pedestrianised thoroughfare outside Brockley Overground is truly delightful, with street-side eateries and cafes, communal benches and children playing up and down the steps. Browns of Brockley is the spot to pop yourself down for a good, strong coffee and a homemade sandwich (or a canelé, if you’re feeling like a treat). While they last, grab a sourdough loaf to take home baked by south London’s Little Bread Pedlar, who deliver their delicious pastries and loaves here by bike.
6. Brockley’s Rock
Brockley’s Rock would certainly be the strongest local fish and chip contender, even for those living even further afield. Along with the classics, their mackerel bap served with homemade tartar sauce is a winner, and their vegan fish steak is spoken about like local gossip. Making a continuous effort to provide sustainably sourced seafood, Brockley’s Rock has won awards for its commitment to ensuring better oceans, making our decision choosing a favourite south London chippy even easier.
7. Good Cup
While meandering along the charming high street in Nunhead, be sure to nip into Good Cup for – as its name suggests – a particularly good cup of coffee. It’s the perfect pit-stop during Saturday morning errands, and, while you’re there, the friendly dog-loving team will quickly rustle you up some boiled eggs and a flat white. If you’re heading out on a walk, grab a smoked salmon and cream cheese Brick Lane Beigel to take away.
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8. The Nunhead Gardener
The Nunhead Gardener tailors to many more than just the green-fingered. Lined with plants for both outdoors and in, tools, seeds and pots of every size, it has everything you need when it comes to the garden. If you need a hand, catch someone’s attention and you’ll be impressed by the level of specialist horticultural knowledge each staff member has. Spot their cat, who can often be found prowling between the plants.
9. The Beer Shop
Nunhead’s micropub The Beer Shop offers an incredible range of beers from independent breweries around the world. They’re always more than happy to help you choose – and let you taste samples. Takeaway in a carton to enjoy at home or have a seat and taste their classic pub snacks too.
10. Mother Superior
What better to accompany a low-key Saturday evening at home hosting (or relaxing) than with a good bottle of wine? Mother Superior, just a few doors down from The Beer Shop, has an array of low-intervention wines and tempting artisan nibbles.
11. Alkemi
Alkemi is the sort of shop where you want to pick everything up and is perfect for last-minute presents. The range is mostly handmade Korean, Japanese and Swedish imports; seasonal incense, handmade brushes by social enterprise Iris Handtverk, and tools for the garden by Niwaki, to name a few. With an astute eye for contemporary design, Alkemi’s owner Jeane Chung is a big advocate for local makers too, stocking one-off ceramic pieces and handmade prints from nearby studios.
12. The Framing Room
No piece of art large, small or awkwardly shaped would be too much trouble for The Framing Room. Get yourself an appointment (leaving plenty of time if you’re up against a deadline) and speak to the friendly team, whose eye and expertise will transform your work through their skilled craftsmanship. Each frame is made by hand in their small Brockley workshop, using carefully sourced wood and conservation-grade materials.
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13. Brockley Market
Brockley Market is the place you want to be on a Saturday morning, whether you’re nursing a hangover with a flatbread fish wrap from Mike & Ollie or feeling fresh (and a little smug) after a night in and ready to pick up your groceries for the week. Just off Lewisham Way, there’s something for everyone among the diverse range of local suppliers, fine food vans and organic produce. Take your biggest canvas bag and it will quickly be filled with cheese from Mons, delicious fresh pasta and seasonal vegetables.
14. The Ivy House
A perfect south London boozer for a pint and a Sunday roast or weekday pizza, with quite the heartwarming back story. Tucked away in Nunhead’s residential streets, The Ivy House was saved by its neighbours and local friends when the building was set to be demolished. The community quickly got together and created a campaign to save the building and its rather brilliant interior. The result: the community now cooperatively owns The Ivy House, making it the first of its kind in London. With over 300 shareholders, the Nunhead staple continues its legacy of live rock and folk music (Ian Dury performed here in the 1970s). Quite the epitome of a Public House.
15. Nunhead Cemetery
Back in the first half of the 19th century, the population in London very quickly doubled from one million people to over two. As a result, seven large cemeteries (informally known as the Magnificent Seven) were built. Perhaps one of the lesser-known of the seven, Nunhead Cemetery is, to locals at least, considered one of the most beautiful. Careful Victorian planting is set amongst elaborate memorials and gothic graves, and the viewpoints look out over the London skyline. The central avenue lined with large, towering lime trees makes the cemetery a beautiful place to walk, reflect and observe.
16. Hilly Fields
Coffee in hand, head on up to Hilly Fields – with its very own stone circle – for a blast of fresh air and brilliant views over the city. The legend is that Octavia Hill, one of the three National Trust Founders, once noticed a beautiful vase of freshly picked flowers. When she asked where they came from, she was directed to Hilly Fields, which was farmland at the time. Up against development, Octavia was pivotal in helping the locals save their green space. A successful community campaign made what we now know as Hilly Fields into a public park for all to enjoy.
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