Our guide to Camden Town and Primrose Hill: from panoramic views to a community ceramics space
Primrose Hill might take its pretty name from the number of flowers that once grew there – although some argue it’s a tribute to Archibald Primrose, who served as prime minister between 1894 and 1895. Until the 19th century, it was predominately woodland and used as a hunting ground by British monarchs. Fast forward to today, however, and instead of royalty you’re more likely to find local A-listers roaming this leafy village-like pocket. Defined by pastel-hued Victorian townhouses and independent shops – easily walkable from Swiss Cottage and Chalk Farm tube stations – Primrose Hill is arguably one of London’s most desirable places to live.
A short stroll down Regent’s Park Road will take you to Camden Town: a corner famed for its eclectic market stalls, diverse dining and alternative music scene, synonymous with stars (including Amy Winehouse, a beloved former regular of the Hawley Arms) and leather-clad punks alike. But there’s more to Camden Town than counterculture: there’s also a contemporary gallery championing emerging artists, a charitable garden centre and a community ceramics studio. Between Camden Town and Primrose Hill you’re never short of things to see and do, from visiting London’s oldest vegetarian restaurant to taking in panoramic views of the city. Here’s our guide to the best of both neighbourhoods.
SEE
1. Chalcot Crescent
Chalcot Crescent is best known for its delightful townhouses in sugary shades of pink, yellow, blue and green – each one of them Grade II-listed. With their high windows, lofty ceilings and close proximity to the independent shops, cafes and restaurants of Regent’s Park Road, it’s little wonder the houses here have attracted many famous faces over the years. In fact, Sylvia Plath, Kate Moss, Jude Law, Jamie Oliver and even Paddington Bear (one of the candy-coloured houses was used as the residence of the Brown family in the film) among others have all called this charming street home. We say it’s worth a wander down whether you live there or not – particularly on a sunny day when the pastel hues look especially pleasing. Notting Hill, eat your heart out.
2. Cob Gallery
Dedicated to exciting emerging talent, Cob Gallery was established in 2011 by curator Victoria Williams and playwright Polly Stenham. Tucked away down an unassuming street around the corner from Camden Road station, Cob might appear compact at first, but the venue comprises a gallery, a series of purpose-built workshops and a 500sq ft project space. The team here has a knack for showcasing the work of new names that go on to become influential artists, so be sure to keep an eye on what’s coming up. Previous solo exhibitions, for instance, have shone a light on the work of artists Phoebe Collings-James, George Rouy, Laila Tara H, Tomo Campbell and photographer Jack Davison, among many more.
3. Cecil Sharp House
Cecil Sharp House is a Grade II-listed modernist building with a strong musical heritage. Built in 1929, it was designed by architect Henry Martineau Fletcher as the headquarters for the English Folk Dance Society and named after the organisation’s founder. As part of its reconstruction after being damaged in World War II, architect John C. Eastwick-Field commissioned Ivon Hitchens to paint a behemoth mural showing English country dances. Measuring 21 metres across, it was the largest in the country at the time of its unveiling and has been a beloved feature of the house ever since. Cecil Sharp House is still a vibrant institution for folk art today, often hosting gigs, dances and classes, but it’s also open for a nose around too.
EAT
4. Sam’s Cafe
Sam’s Cafe, run by novelist Andrew O’Hagan and actor Sam Frears, is a “greasy spoon without the grease”. It’s open late for dinner, hosts the occasional supper club and has a wonderful wine list – but the best place to start is with the all-day breakfasts. The full English, full vegan, breakfast baps and bubble and squeak with homemade baked beans on toast are all mouth-watering options (particularly the morning after a booze-fuelled night). While you wait for your food to come, entertain yourself with the vintage jukebox and pore over the work of the seasonal artist-in-residence on the wall. Our hot tip: wash everything down with a proper coffee. Just a two-minute walk from Primrose Hill Park, it’s the perfect place to fuel a long walk.
5. Lemonia
Greek restaurant Lemonia’s exposed-brick walls, tiled floors, lemon-tree motifs and trails of climbing plants will transport you to the Aegean. This Primrose Hill institution on Regent’s Park Road has been run by the same family for more than 40 years and is as loved by locals as it is by celebrities – Kate Moss, Jude Law and Harry Styles have all been known to escape the rainy north London climate here. Come for authentic, homestyle versions of traditional Greek dishes, from dolmades and freshly made tzatziki to charcoal-grilled seafood and keftedes.
6. Odette’s
Another long-standing favourite with Primrose Hill residents is Odette’s. This characterful dining room, nestled among a parade of Victorian shopsfronts and cafes, first opened in 1978 and is now under the helm of Welsh chef Bryn Williams. His menu changes seasonally, but every dish is based on the very best produce and is cooked simply to showcase the flavours. While it’s lovely all year round, Odette’s comes into its own during the warmer months, when diners can enjoy their meal alfresco.
7. Daphne
Named after a beautiful nymph in Greek mythology, Daphne is a cosy and inviting Greek Cypriot restaurant run by mother-and-son duo Anna and Nicholas Lymbouri. The interior is defined by green-painted wood and black-and-white photographs depicting late 19th-century village life in Cyprus, which hang on the walls, giving it old-school charm. This north London culinary landmark is only a five-minute stroll from Camden Town tube station, so you don’t have too far to find what is arguably the best moussaka in town.
8. Manna
Opened in 1967, Manna claims to be London’s original vegetarian (now fully vegan) restaurant. What sets it apart from the many others since is its focus on hearty, comforting and fuss-free dishes in a relaxed and homely setting – think plant-based Sunday roasts, toad-in-the-hole with mash, creamy ravioli and vegetable-packed curries. This hidden gem, which you’ll find down a leafy Primrose Hill street, also has a delightful deli section where you can pick up a freshly baked loaf and vegan cakes to take home with you too.
SHOP
9. Primrose Hill Books
Situated in a Victorian terraced house with an unmissable bright-blue façade, this family-run independent bookshop has a large stock of new and second-hand books (a vast collection of over 10,000 lives in the basement), as well as vintage maps. It feels apt to pick up one of the many titles written by local wordsmiths, such as Alan Bennett’s collection of prose Keeping On Keeping On, Helen Fielding’s infamous Bridget Jones’s Diary or a Jamie Oliver cookbook. It’s situated a short distance from the hill, so pop in on your way and pick up a page-turner to read at your bench of choice.
10. Camden Coffee Shop
Stepping through the door of this tiny bean store on Delancey Street almost feels like entering a museum, with its original tiling, chipped weighing scales and façade that hasn’t been changed since it opened in 1950. There are no signs of oat flat whites here: this is a coffee shop with a difference. Having taken the reins from his uncle in 1979,George Constaninou runs the show, often dressed in his signature blue overalls. He roasts beans using old machines that date as far back as the 1910s. As he’s been known to explain: they don’t make them like they used to. Taste his coffee and you’ll be inclined to agree. Camden Coffee Shop, which doesn’t have a website, is open daily 11.30am-4pm, except on Thursday and Sunday.
11. Camden Garden Centre
Camden Garden Centre is not your average nursery. As well as supplying plants and products – from highly sought-after David Austin English roses and terracotta pots to barbecues, fencing and furniture – it is also a charitable organisation improving employment opportunities for disadvantaged Londoners through training and educational opportunities. It also hosts the occasional horticultural event. After you’ve done some browsing, head to the top floor for Pritchard and Ure, a bookshop and vegetarian cafe, for all your pitstop needs.
DO
12. Regent’s Park and Primrose Hill
There’s certainly lots to do in the 400 acres that make up Regent’s Park, which was designed by architect John Nash and named after his friend, the Prince Regent, who later became King George IV. Hire a pedalo, wander through the gloriously scented Queen Mary’s Gardens – home to London’s largest collection of roses – and watch a performance at the open-air theatre (if it’s between May and September). For the ornithologists among us, the park is also home to around 100 species of wild bird – but if those aren’t exotic enough for you, head to the northern edge for ZSL London Zoo. Once you’ve finished exploring here, cross the road and you’ll reach Primrose Hill, which offers spectacular views across the city. Its grassy summit is one of the six protected viewpoints in London.
13. Primrose Hill Market
A stroll round Primrose Hill Market, soaking up the bustling atmosphere, is perhaps the perfect way to spend a couple of hours on a Saturday morning. Located on Elsworthy Court, right next to the hill itself, the market is a Community Interest Company (CIC), launched and run by traders for the benefit of those living here – and its strong community spirit is palpable. Expect to find plenty of fresh seasonal produce, from veggies to bread, meat to fish, as well as street-food stalls serving all sorts of tasty snacks – we love Paula’s Samosas for its East African take on the filled-pastry treat.
14. Rochester Square
Another example of community spirit can be found in Rochester Square, a once-derelict plant nursery in the heart of Camden, which was purchased by local couple Francesca Anfossi and Eric Wragge and transformed into an artistic space. Inspired by multidisciplinary artist Francesca’s trip to India, the focus of Rochester Square is to strengthen the relationship between clay, food and the garden – there’s a ceramic studio, quarterly communal dinners every season and a sculpture garden where local artists are encouraged to develop their own practice and create installations. Stay tuned to its programme for news of events and workshops.
15. Regent’s Canal
This nine-mile waterway that flows quietly through the capital was built in 1820 to link the Grand Junction Canal’s Paddington branch with the River Thames, but it’s become a place of leisure for Londoners. Starting at picturesque Little Venice and finishing at Limehouse, you can easily complete the stretch by foot, bike or boat. Hop down to the towpath easily via a few stairs at Camden Lock and from there you can make your way to Regent’s Park, King’s Cross (the perfectly positioned exit here leads you to Coal Drops Yard for dining), Dalston, Victoria Park and beyond. Along the way you’ll find waterside restaurants and an array of architecture to take in, including Grand Union Walk, a row of modernist townhouses designed in 1988 by Sir Nicholas Grimshaw.
See our Camden and Primrose Hill listings.
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