Our guide to Crystal Palace: second-hand design and vintage dinosaurs in south-east London
Of all the curious names of the capital’s various corners – from Swiss Cottage to Elephant and Castle – perhaps none are as fascinating as Crystal Palace: a reference to the behemoth glass building that hosted the Great Exhibition in Hyde Park in the middle of the 19th century.
Playwright Douglas Jerrold was so struck by the edifice that he described it in the satirical magazine Punch as “a palace of very crystal” – and it was a moniker that captured the imagination of Victorian London. When the Crystal Palace was painstakingly rebuilt on a site at the summit of Sydenham Hill, it gave its name to a nearby neighbourhood, which remained so after the structure burned down in 1936.
Today, this hilly south-east London community is at once suburban and creative, with a stronghold of independent shops, a large park and a family-friendly feel. Its Victorian history is reflected in the architectural stock, though there are modernist estates tucked away between the rows of period homes (as well as London’s steepest street). It may be missing its original landmark, but our tour of Crystal Palace proves it has plenty going on.
SEE
1. Crystal Palace Park
London’s green spaces are rightfully cherished – and Crystal Palace Park, in particular, has a lot to love. Home to two structures nominated for the RIBA Stirling Prize, it’s also a magnet for architecture enthusiasts. Make your first stop at the dormant stage of the Crystal Palace Bowl, a great slab of angled corten steel known to locals as “the rusty laptop”. Built in 1991 to mark a natural amphitheatre that once played host to Pink Floyd, the Beach Boys and Bob Marley, it’s the focus of a spirited fundraising campaign, which hopes to spearhead restoration works. To the south, the modernist National Sports Centre has a hulking concrete frame and an undulating roofline.
Head towards the lake and you’ll soon stumble upon the park’s best-loved attraction: its resident dinosaurs. Some 15 sculptures were unveiled in 1854 as the first dinosaur models in the world. They have been mentioned in novels by Charles Dickens and H.G Wells and were upgraded to Grade-I listed status in 2006. The fact that all are wildly inaccurate only adds to the charm. There’s also a maze, which dates back to the 1870s, and six Grade II-listed sphinx statues, as well as a museum dedicated to the history of Crystal Palace.
2. Crystal Palace Subway
London is dotted with disused subterranean routes, from tube stations that never opened to secret tunnels. Just like the dinosaurs, Crystal Palace Subway, the ornate underpass tucked away under Crystal Palace Parade, can be traced back to the Great Exhibition; it was built in 1865 to escort first-class visitors to the exhibition hall. It’s soon to be permanently open for use for the first time since its closure in 1954, thanks to a thoughtful restoration project, which means visitors can pore over its beautiful geometric Victorian brickwork.
EAT
3. Palazzo
This is an Italian that knows what the people want: authentically turned out dishes like chicken Milanese, panzanella and pork meatballs, side by side with crowd pleasers, such as parmesan-and-truffle fries, and some of the best pizzas in the postcode (thanks to the team behind Peckham’s Made of Dough). The capacious dining room has a louche 1970s feel, while rotating DJs make good use of a late-night weekend license. Drop in for double-up negroni sbagliatos – and more – during aperitivo hours in the week.
4. Four Boroughs
Handily located by the crossroads that links the park with the Crystal Palace Triangle – a one-way system that marks the neighbourhood’s main cluster of independent shops and restaurants (more on that later) – this airy coffee house might just be the best cup in the area (head of coffee Ratislav Kasar has been named Coffee Master Champion at the London Coffee Festival 2022). There are also vegan and vegetarian bites on offer, as well as natural wines and deli goods for sale – but don’t be caught out by its 3pm closing time during the week.
5. Chatsworth Bakehouse
There’s a certain fraction of us that find joy in hunting down the best sourdough loaf in the postcode. With the kind of community-driven story that we should all strive to support, this small-batch bakery was born two years ago as the passion project of couple Sian Evans and Tom Mathews, when the pandemic put paid to Tom’s pop-up restaurant. Look for the red façade on Anerley Road for generously filled focaccia, stuffed pizza and plenty of inventive treats. Top tip: you’ll want to arrive early to avoid the queues on a Saturday morning, when flavoured focaccia, cereal cookies, tin loaves and tarts are served fresh out of the oven.
6. The Alma
Another legacy of Victorian London, The Alma is a fresh incarnation of a local boozer that’s lost none of its allure in the process (it was recently described by The Guardian’s restaurant critic Grace Dent as the “pub of my dreams”). A new menu has arrived with the paint job, touting refined gastropub fare like confit-duck leg with white bean cassoulet and hispi cabbage, and roasted squash with miso butternut purée, cavolo nero and chestnut granola. The large beer garden draws in punters all year round – even throughout winter, when it’s fully covered and heated.
7. Brown & Green
That there are three iterations of Brown & Green in Crystal Palace alone is a testament to its popularity. A sign promising “cake, wine and beer” lures in passers-by on the Triangle, while a bijou branch is ready to replenish weary arrivals at the station. We think the best place to try the menu of Aussie-inspired butties, scrambles and bigger breakfasts is the outpost overlooking the lake in the park, which is housed on the ground floor of a contemporary building clad in cedar shingles by Chris Dyson Architects.
SHOP
8. Crystal Palace Antiques
There are four floors to explore at this second-hand design emporium, which makes it a welcome antidote to the more ubiquitous pokey, crammed-to-the-brim antique shops. With 20 dealers on the books, expect a real mix of periods and persuasions, from classic Georgian and Victorian cabinets to mid-century dining chairs and sideboards. Ercol makes a regular appearance, as does modernist Danish lighting. A simple digital presence is a far cry from the competitive Instagram market, and the relaxed atmosphere makes things easy for those just looking.
9. Elkins
The kind of boutique that the word ‘mooch’ was invented for, Elkins is the brainchild of designer Jessamy Llewellyn, who started her career selling her own homeware designs at London’s many markets. You’ll spot Scandinavian brands like Bloomingville and Madam Stoltz alongside locally made products, plus a curated mix of clothing, jewellery, books and cards to round out the edit. It might just save the day if you’re after a last-minute birthday gift, though you’ll be just as likely to leave with something for yourself.
10. The Affinity Brewery
Those who have enjoyed a pint of pale ale or two at Affinity’s Brixton brewpub need not trek back west for another fix. This Church Road shop has a wide selection of self-made canned brews – all artfully labelled – plus party-ready mini kegs and guest beers from brewery mates. Traditionalists might get a little more than they’d bargained for; we’ve spotted a raspberry and coconut stout and a lime zest and coriander saison alongside the more conventional offerings. It would be rude not to try the Crystal Palace IPA when you’re in the neighbourhood.
11. Penge General Store
Any dinner party would benefit from a call-in at this do-it-all shop, which has a particularly good selection of wine and cheeses. There are also beautiful, utilitarian items for the home, handy refill stations for soaps and dried goods and a wide range of deli bits from some of the most sought-after producers around, such as Happy Endings and Flor. Those with dietary requirements will be particularly pleased to find artisan vegan cheese, gluten-free crackers and the like. Pop in at the weekend for the pastries and bagels – and keep an eye out for tasting events.
12. Alexandra Nurseries
This independent garden centre is well worth a short walk towards Penge. Founded a decade ago by a landscape designer and his son, it’s housed in what was originally the Estate House for the tenants of the surrounding cottages (look out for the stained glass windows behind the greenery). Like many of London’s hidden-gem nurseries, they haven’t got a huge footprint to work with, so flowers, grasses and shrubs burst forth from every available surface. Grab a coffee and a slice of something tasty from the cafe before you head home, probably with pot in hand.
DO
13. The Triangle
There’s little need to traipse around Crystal Palace in pursuit of a decent pub, bookshop or framers, as you’ll find most of the bustle concentrated within these three streets. This is local shorthand – ask for directions and chances are you’ll soon be en route to ‘the Triangle’. As well as a wealth of independents, it’s also where you’ll find the Upper Norwood Library Hub, a community and arts space that does plenty more than hand out books. It’s home to a brilliant “library of things”, where you can hire everything from tile cutters to tents via a self-serve locker system.
14. Crystal Palace’s Markets
Crystal Palace Food Market, which has a focus on produce from organic, small-scale farms, can be found down Haynes Lane, opposite a row of pretty Victorian cottages, on a Saturday. Adjacent is Haynes Lane Market, a good old-fashioned jumble sale with all manner of curios stuffed into every nook and cranny of a rabbit-warren-like network of rooms – patient rummagers will be well rewarded. For a Sunday street-food fix, head to Crystal Palace Park Market, which takes up weekly residence on a tree-lined path near the lower lake. There’s a diverse offering here, from handmade Himalayan dumplings to pastéis de natas.
15. Everyman
This Art Deco cinema on Church Road first opened as The Rialto in the 1920s. Later re-named The Picture Palace, it closed in 1968 and operated as a bingo hall, and then a church, before being snapped up by the boutique Everyman brand. Its rebirth represents quite a success for the Picture Palace Campaign, which spent almost a decade battling to re-open the local landmark as a cinema. There are no sticky, popcorn-studded carpets here; this is a herringbone floor kind of cinema, with a wood-panelled bar that recalls its Rialto heyday.
BUY
16. Alma Place, London SE19
This beautiful two-bedroom home is situated down a tiny mews in the heart of Crystal Palace, just a minutes’ walk from the Triangle and – as its address suggests – conveniently close to the brilliant pub, The Alma. It forms part of a trio of Victorian houses, which are defined by their ornate brickwork and butterfly-pitched roofs. Inside, the expertly renovated living spaces of this particular build celebrate its heritage via original brick fireplaces and characterful wooden floors, while its white-washed walls and artful placement of objects also bring it right up to date.
See our Crystal Palace listings.
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