Our neighbourhood guide to Notting Hill – from brutalism to bookshops and the best grocers for fresh produce
Notting Hill: a place of brutalist architecture, pretty terraced houses, antique markets and, of course, its colourful carnival. Much has changed since the latter was first held here in 1966. The area was defined by a community of Caribbean migrants that had come to the UK in response to the post-war labour shortages and the carnival offered a way to connect with their culture and celebrate their heritage.
Come the 1990s and the era of Hugh Grant and Julia Roberts fame, and this distinctive corner of west London was well on its way to becoming rather fashionable and a firm favourite for film backdrops thanks to its picturesque streets. But just like its carnival, which continues to be held here each year, Notting Hill remains a diverse and creative place. It’s an area of many happenings and it can be hard to know how to spend your time, so read on for our guide to the best of Notting Hill.
SEE
1. Trellick Tower
Ernő Goldfinger’s Grade II-listed Trellick Tower is a landmark of brutalist architecture. It has been a defining feature of the Notting Hill skyline since it was built in the late 1960s. A product of the Hungarian-born architect’s pioneering vision for high-rise living in Britain, the building was a carefully conceived response to the housing crisis in the country. The stairs, lifts and refuse chutes were separated from the main building to minimise noise and vibration in the apartments and the efficient structural layout reduced the need for corridors.
But the project came to be plagued by crime and poor management not long after it opened to residents in 1972 and it subsequently acquired the moniker ‘The Tower of Terror’. It was destined to go the way of many neglected post-war brutalist social housing, but the tower was saved by investment in the 1980s and 1990s and remains an enduring example of the potential of social housing.
2. The Tabernacle
Once described as the ‘Taj Mahal of North Kensington’, the Tabernacle was founded as an evangelical church on Powis Square in 1869. The current idiosyncratic building, with its twin towers and Romanesque façade in red brick and terracotta, was built in 1887. When it closed as a church in 1975 the Tabernacle was slated for demolition but survived thanks to a community campaign. Except for brief periods when the building was used by The Rolling Stones and Pink Floyd to rehearse, the Tabernacle has been a thriving community arts centre ever since.
3. St Luke’s Mews and Lancaster Road
Notting Hill is known for its pretty streets and postcard- (and Instagram-) worthy colourful terraces. Some of the best – and most photographed – are on Lancaster Road and St Luke’s Mews. The houses painted in shades of sherbet make a delightful backdrop for a post-prandial stroll, offering moments of respite from the bustle of Portobello Road.
SHOP
4. The Grocer on Elgin
Before they opened The Grocer on Elgin, Ashley Sumner and Vivienne Hayman had run the hugely successful (now-closed) restaurant, The Sugar Club, which they brought to London from their native New Zealand in 1995. Having won Time Out’s ‘Best Modern British Restaurant’ award, among others, the pair turned their attention to changing the way we think about ready meals. Freshly prepared in Notting Hill using seasonal produce sourced from local growers and their own garden, The Grocer on Elgin makes it easy to eat healthy, restaurant-quality food at home. Top tip: look out for their signature saffron poached pears.
5. Rough Trade West
Record shop Rough Trade opened on Kensington Park Road in 1976, establishing a chain of stores and a record label that counted The Smiths, The Libertines and The Strokes among its roster. The label and the stores would later split, and although the Notting Hill store moved to Talbot Road, it retains much of the same independent spirit, as well as posters and memorabilia, from its original location.
6. Lutyens & Rubinstein
Lutyens & Rubinstein is a bookshop with a difference. Born out of frustration with changes in the publishing industry that meant certain titles were not getting the exposure they deserved, Sarah Lutyens and Felicity Rubinstein founded the shop as an offshoot of the eponymous literary agency they have run since 1993. Their highly curated collection of contemporary fiction and selection of all-time classics is a testimony to both their professional expertise and love of literature.
EAT
7. Orasay
Orasay takes its name and inspiration from the island in the Outer Hebrides where chef Jackson Boxer spent his family holidays. Expect small plates showcasing the best of Scottish seafood – such as Morecambe Bay oysters and Torbay prawns – prepared with nods to Asian and Mediterranean cuisines in a contemporary and understated setting.
8. Empire Empire
Empire Empire is something of a love letter to 1970s India. The wood-panelled restaurant pays homage to the Punjab region, in particular, with a menu that champions classic curries, tikkas and biryanis (the lobster one is nothing short of sublime). And nothing sets the mood for it like its jukebox playlist, featuring the sounds of playback singers and Bollywood stars – think Kishore Kumar, Nazia Hassan and Asha Bhsole – that plays overhead.
9. Kuro Eatery
With its clean and considered scheme – think white walls with honey-hued wooden furnishings – Kuro Eatery is nothing short of a delight to dine in. The all-day restaurant serves Mediterranean-inspired dishes using seasonal ingredients, such as bream ceviche with chilli and green apple; and flatbread with goat’s cheese and fermented hot honey. Its sister joints, Kuro Coffee and Kuro Bakery – also located in Notting Hill – are equally exquisite.
10. Caia
Here’s one that turns up the heat: Caia is the open-fire restaurant and late-night bar and music venue. Plates such as pumpkin served with crispy artichokes and cheese foam, and purple sprouting broccoli with brown-crab velouté are designed to be shared ‘family-style’. Make sure to save room for the toasted marshmallows with dark chocolate and raspberries.
11. Suzi Tros
Suzi Tros is the latest project from the husband-and-wife team behind Mazi, the Notting Hill restaurant that brought modern Greek cuisine to London. The bistro and cocktail bar is a more laid-back affair than its sister, taking inspiration from contemporary Greek tavernas, but demonstrates the same focus on seasonality, tradition and innovation.
12. Gold
This restaurant and late-night bar on Portobello Road has made a name for itself in recent years, partly due to the distinctive mural by Portuguese street artist Vhils carved into its facade. Chef Theo Hill, an alumni of The River Cafe, prepares modern European fare over an open wood fire while cocktails curated by experts Matt Whiley and Rich Woods are served in the upstairs bar.
13. Cepages
Cepages is a French bistro centred around their selection of fine wine sourced directly from winemakers. Traditional French cuisine – snails in garlic butter; baked camembert – is served alongside innovative dishes, such as grilled langoustines with sweetcorn fritters and chorizo cream in a relaxed and easy-going atmosphere.
DO
14. Portobello Road Market
Portobello Road Market can trace its origins to the rag-and-bone men who began selling their wares alongside stallholders hawking fruit and veg in the 1940s. Soon the market became a centre for the antiques trade and a destination for everyone from serious dealers to those who just want to soak up the street’s lively, independent spirit.
Immortalised in music (Blur, Cat Stevens, Caetano Veloso), literature (A Bear Called Paddington, Martin Amis’s London Fields) and, of course, film (Bedknobs and Broomsticks as well as Notting Hill), the success of the market has meant that the two-km-long road has been divided into sections to help shoppers find what they want, ranging from clothing to secondhand goods, antiques to fruit and veg. If you can’t make it to Portobello Road for the main market day on Saturday, the antique shops that line the road offer more than enough for browsing on an afternoon.
15. Golborne Road
A less hectic – and some might argue, more authentic – tributary of Portobello Road, Golborne Road is the epicentre of both the Portuguese and Moroccan communities in London. As well as hosting its own weekend market, there are Moroccan fish grills and Portuguese bakeries – make sure you stop at locals’ favourite Lisboa Patisserie for a pastel de nata. Plus, it has an exceptional view of the aforementioned Trellick Tower.
16. Notting Hill Arts Club
For more than 20 years, the Notting Hill Arts Club has been a proving ground for artists at the beginning of their careers, launching the likes of The Libertines and Lily Allen. Today the club maintains the neighbourhood’s legacy as a countercultural hub with regular nights dedicated to everything from grime and hip-hop to indie and jazz.
17. Electric Cinema
One of the oldest working cinemas in Britain, the Electric Cinema has been a fixture on Portobello Road since it opened in 1910. With its leather armchairs, footstools and tables for food and drink, the cinema harks back to a pre-megaplex era of film-going but maintains a programme of both mainstream releases and carefully curated arthouse films.
18. Notting Hill Carnival
The largest street festival in Europe, attended by two and a half million people each year, the Notting Hill Carnival is considered one of the defining emblems of contemporary British culture. Held on the Sunday and Monday of August Bank Holiday weekend, the carnival is a joyful celebration of Caribbean culture. Come for the parades of vibrant costumes and colourful floats, stay for the food and powerful sound systems.
BUY
19. Kensington Park Road, London W11
This light-filled maisonette is situated in the very heart of Notting Hill, on the corner of Kensington Park Road and Westbourne Grove. Arguably, this spacious three-bedroom home feels more akin to a townhouse, thanks to it’s immaculate five floors and expansive living spaces. And then there’s the large south-facing roof terrace, with views of the neighbourhood and local park – particularly enjoyable in all-day sun.
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