A modern guide to Rye: art, design and natural wine in East Sussex
From fishing village to medieval citadel, smuggling epicentre to literary haven, Rye’s rich and alluring past has seeped into the bones of the town. Its quaint cobbled streets showcase some of the finest surviving examples of historic British architecture today – so much so that Rye’s beauty and tranquility have been attracting crowds for centuries.
But there is more to Rye than history. It has plenty of rural charm, too: it borders both the Rye Nature Reserve and Romney Marshes and is also delightfully close to Camber Sands, which has glorious uninterrupted views of the East Sussex coast. Though we love Rye best for its artisan shops, antique treasure troves, art galleries and contemporary eateries. Here are our favourite places that showcase the best of the town, including the more modern strings to Rye’s bow.
SEE
1. Lamb House
Lamb House is a Grade II*-listed Georgian townhouse with many a tale to tell. Since it was built in 1723, it has been inhabited by literary heavyweights including Henry James, E.F Benson and Rumer Godden. It’s now a National Trust property displaying a collection of James memorabilia and the remnant of his library. The walled gardens, commissioned by the American novelist, make a charming setting for a spot of afternoon tea and cake. Roses, lilies, spring bulbs and many herbaceous varieties frame the lawn, ensuring continuous colour and interest, regardless of the season.
2. The local landscape
Covering 1,000 acres, the Rye Harbour Nature Reserve includes an array of habitats, from sand, marsh and scrub to woodland, lagoons and shingle. This mixed terrain is home to more than 4,000 different species, as well as an incredible spectrum of historic defensive architecture dating back 700 years. Where else could you find a castle built by Henry VIII, World War II pillboxes and a Martello defence Tower built during the Napoleonic Wars?
If you fancy venturing further afield, take the three-mile walk or bike along the National Cycle Network to the stunning and expansive beach at Camber Sands, the only sand-dune beach in East Sussex. Top tip: pop in to The Gallivant and sample a locally crafted beverage before the return leg to Rye.
3. Ypres Tower
Once the smuggling capital of England, Rye has a fascinating past that is best discovered through a visit to Ypres Tower, part of the Rye Castle Museum. During the medieval period, Rye was enlisted to defend the country from continental Europe, as one of its critical Cinque Ports. The tower has stood since 1249, serving as a fort, private dwelling, prison, court hall and now as a museum. From here, we recommend climbing to St Mary’s Parish Church Tower, from which the views are spectacular. On a clear day, you’ll see the rufescent hue of Rye’s rooftops, the sweeping Sussex countryside and windswept Winchelsea twinkling in the distance.
EAT
4. The Fig
Make The Fig your first culinary sit-down stop in Rye. Much loved for its brunch offering (served until midday), this independent, lively cafe offers healthy and delicious dishes every day of the week, including the obligatory avocado on toast, and a herby mushroom Benedict. Coffee and bread are locally sourced from Judges Bakery in Hastings, and & Bloss in Ashford, while the juices and smoothies will leave you feeling virtuous. The presentation is on point throughout and the team carry out their work with a certain elan, which all makes for a cracking start to the day.
5. Marino’s Fish Bar
Open all year round for lunch and dinner, this chippy is a favourite with the locals. Situated at the bottom of The Mint, Marino’s serves traditional fish and chips and all the classics that come with it, which can be enjoyed as a takeaway or sit-down meal. As well as your standard fare, scallops are also on the menu if you go at the right time of year (February), as well as deep-fried pineapple fritters for dessert, if you feel so inclined.
6. Webbe’s at the Fish Cafe
Located on Tower Street, Webbe’s is an eco-minded fish restaurant serving up the best of the local ports alongside seasonal produce from Rye and Hastings, with Sussex crab, oysters and gurnard among the regional delicacies. In February, Webbe’s participates in Rye’s ever-popular Scallop Week, offering a Rye Bay scallop taster menu and at least half a dozen dedicated dishes on the à la carte menu, too. The restaurant is located on the ground floor of a charmingly wonky Arts and Crafts warehouse; if you’re making a weekend of it, enjoy a more hands-on experience at Webbe’s Cookery School upstairs.
7. Landgate Bistro
Housed in adjoining Georgian cottages, Landgate Bistro is the perfect setting for an elegant supper with a modern British slant. It’s a real locavore restaurant, with produce sourced from nearby fields, shores and woodlands. The atmosphere is informal but the food is smart and everything from the bread to the ice cream is prepared on the premises. The menu changes with the seasons, but the flavours remain consistently bold and the dishes adventurous, which is why it’s developed a robust reputation as one of the best dining experiences in town.
SHOP
8. McCully & Crane
Former east London residents Marcus Crane and Gareth McCully have created a haven of beautifully crafted and cleverly reworked furniture, salvaged lighting and one-off objets trouvés at this gallery and shop. The walls are adorned with beautiful pieces by locally based artists, such as Luke Hannam, as well as an eclectic mix of taxidermied animals and religious artefacts to leave you agog. Now into its second decade in business, McCully & Crane is a must-visit if you’re looking for something special to sit in your home.
9. Merchant & Mills
Carolyn Denham and Roderick Field opened Merchant & Mills in 2010 with the intention of bringing style and purpose to what they viewed as “the overlooked world of sewing”. The result? A draper’s offering fabrics, patterns and beautiful tools, intended to help novices and professionals create functional, desirable clothing as a viable alternative to that of the high street.
10. Puckhaber
Rye is celebrated for its plethora of antique shops – and Puckhaber is one of its very best. This family-run business, now run by a mother-and-son duo, specialises in decorative objects and furniture sourced from France, Sweden and beyond. While it also has a base in London, its Rye store is something of an Aladdin’s of period mirrors and artful paintings, which sit alongside an edit of contemporary jewellery, homeware and textiles.
11. Hunter Jones
Hunter Jones began as a vintage furniture business in London in 2009, relocating to Rye a year later. In 2019, it then evolved into its latest guise: a contemporary lifestyle store. Along with its own range of natural skincare products, Hunter Jones stocks candles from Earl of East and ceramics from Danish brand Studio Arhoj.
12. Rae
If you’re in the market for soft furnishings, ceramics or home accessories, then Rae is the place to go. Expect vintage interior pieces, a whole host of products from independent makers and a selection of textiles from Rae’s own in-house label. It’s a beautifully curated and serene shop, ideal for finding the perfect gift or that self-care purchase you need in your life right now (yes, you deserve it).
DO
13. Tillingham
Set amongst 70 acres of rolling hills and woodlands, the Tillingham winery is only a 10-minute drive from Rye. Operating as a mixed-farm cultivating vines, fruit trees and livestock, it has a progressive, sustainable, poly-cultural and biodynamic ethos. Visitors can enjoy the farm’s produce during a 90-minute wine tasting and vineyard tour, finishing with a drink in the bar or by sampling the farm’s delicacies at the restaurant. Alternatively, grab a wood-fired pizza or cheese and charcuterie plate in the bar downstairs, washed down with a delicious glass of natural wine (the Qveri orange is outstanding). They even have gorgeous rooms where you can stay too.
14. Mermaid Street
Surely a contender for one of the prettiest and most Instagrammed thoroughfares in the UK, Mermaid Street is as ramshackle and quaint as they come. This cobbled hill is home to half-timbered buildings from the Tudor era, most notably The House with Two Front Doors, The House Opposite, and the supposedly haunted hotels, Jeakes House and The Mermaid Inn. Venture into the latter for a drink underneath the sloping beamed ceilings and find a perch in this medieval mantrap of priest holes and smugglers’ tunnels.
Although picturesque in every season, Mermaid Street – along with Rye’s other cobbled lanes, for that matter – is particularly enchanting in May, when the purple buds of wisteria adorning the old buildings are in florescence.
15. Knoops
This is hot chocolate gone pro. Hailing from Germany, this speciality liquid chocolate shop was the first Knoops store to open in the UK in 2013. The Knoops concept is based on a carefully curated percentage menu, which offers chocolate to suit every taste and mood. There are more than 20 types of hot chocolate ranked by strength, from a sweet and creamy 28% white all the way up to an intense 100% extra dark. Over half the drinks are vegan-friendly and available chilled. Go wild with the more divisive flavours, which include cardamom, pimenton and ginger.
16. The Rye Waterworks
If you’re partial to a pint, The Rye Waterworks serves up a rotating selection of local ales, beers and ciders, served by a knowledgable, friendly team in a building as interesting as the drinks. Be prepared to share tables and get chatting, pet some pooches and make an impromptu purchase from the selection of curios for sale on the walls.
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