The best of Bethnal Green: from contemporary art galleries to our favourite restaurants
Bethnal Green, the heart of the East End, rolls up history and heritage into one compact and buzzy neighbourhood. It was once the centre of the silk weaving industry; then came the furniture trade – in fact, many of the industries’ factories and workshops still stand today, preserved by conservation status. The area has a harder, grittier place in history too: it was the former stomping ground of Jack the Ripper and the Kray Twins.
Victorian terrace houses, industrial warehouses, ex-council flats, and towering new builds form the architectural landscape – a veritable assortment due to the impact of the Second World War. But there’s plenty of pockets of green spaces, and Regent’s Canal skirts the eastern edge. While Bethnal Green’s east London cousins – from Shoreditch to Hoxton – have undergone considerable gentrification, there’s still a rare authentic charm to the area, home to long-time East Enders, a large Bangladeshi community, and young creatives alike. Here’s our guide to the neighbourhood – plus, three of our best homes for sale here.
SEE
1. E.Pellicci
This is a greasy spoon with a difference, and not simply because of its Grade II-listed status. Named after the original Tuscan owner’s wife, E. Pellicci opened in 1900 and remains within the same family today, its title emblazoned in chrome above the door.
Inside, it’s pure 1950s caff: all Formica tables, squeezy red ketchup bottles, and hand-carved wooden panelling. The menu follows suit, with an Italian edge, offering the likes of a full English fry-up and cannelloni (an extra spoonful of Bolognese on top is optional). It’s still presided over by Mama Maria, who was in the kitchen back when the Kray twins would regularly swing by.
2. Town Hall Hotel and Apartments
Formerly Bethnal Green Town Hall, this Grade II-listed building is a Lo Lik Peng-owned hotel that embraces its heritage (you can still get married in the original walnut-panelled Council Chamber).
The building’s Edwardian proportions are celebrated but there’s also a contemporary sheen: art deco and moulding detailing sits side-by-side with mid-century furniture and a material palette of glass and marble (the latter used in abundance in the petite underground pool). Don’t miss its restaurant Da Terra for Michelin-starred dishes by chef Rafael Cagali.
3. Galleries
The hotbed of contemporary art in east London is heavily associated with the Young British Artists movement of the 1990s. Maureen Paley championed a number of them and was one of the first gallerists to set up an international space in Bethnal Green in 1999, showcasing Turner-prize winning artists such as Gillian Wearing and Wolfgang Tillmans. Her namesake gallery is a must for fans of contemporary art today.
Elsewhere, Nicky Verber and Ash L’ange run Herald St, a gallery in a former industrial building on the street of the same name. It offers a place for experimental art and up-and-coming artists. And the new generation of the art world has arrived, too: curator-of-the-moment Antonia Marsh has an outpost of her gallery, Soft Opening (whose original is a shop front inside Piccadilly Circus tube station), on Minerva Street. She challenges the traditional notions of exhibiting art and cites Tracey Emin and Sarah Lucas’ The Shop as inspiration.
EAT
4. Bistrotheque
Pablo Flack and David Waddington’s much-loved Bistrotheque – a late-night restaurant, bar, and party palace (drag dinners are still, thankfully, a feature) – has been a firm favourite of the fashion set and fellow creatives since the doors opened in 2004.
Set within a whitewashed warehouse on Wadeson Street, its exposed loft interior, contrasted with crisp white tablecloths and silver cutlery, remains in vogue today and the menu – British with a classic French twist – and professional but friendly service are a cut above. Weekend brunch is a popular time to come: order bloody Marys and French toast and listen to Xavier, resident pianist, play everything from 1980s classics to Britney Spears.
5. Sager + Wilde
Bethnal Green’s outpost of this neighbourhood wine bar is set under the old railway arches of Paradise Row (its siblings live on Hackney Road and Old Street). The extensive wine list is a roll card of mostly European varieties – the founders travelled extensively to vineyards around the globe – with just as much attention given to its fun ‘Orange’ and ‘Pink’ sections. The seasonal dinner menu is similarly European in flavour, with a big focus on fresh pasta.
6. The Common E2
An architecture studio, co-working space, and café rolled into one on Old Bethnal Green Road. Come here for coffees by The Roasting Party and the best breakfast and brunch dishes in the area, such as shakshuka, bacon and eggs on cornbread, plus a delicious selection of pastries and sweet treats – whether you have to work or not.
SHOP
7. Pam Pam
It’s rare to find a sneaker shop based solely on exclusive and hard-to-find designs for women – but at Pam Pam, they do just that. Whether you’re after the latest Yeezy models or a pair of everyday Vans, there’s something for everyone here.
8. Conservatory Archives
A jungle-like emporium of house plants on Hackney Road – frequent for everything from housewarming succulents to sculpture-like, scene-setting monstera deliciosas. Every wall, ceiling, and doorway is adorned in green (plus their vase selection is excellent, so it’s a true one-stop-shop). Their projects team offer design solutions for private spaces, including homes and offices, if you require inspiration.
DO
9. Coupette
Think of Coupette as a slice of the Left Bank in East London. This dimly lit cocktail bar on Bethnal Green Road turns out cocktails featuring classic French spirits: Calvados, Courvoisier, Cointreau. Start with their signature and much-lauded Champagne piña colada – and stay for the snacks, such as quiche Lorraine and baked camembert.
10. The V&A Museum of Childhood
The V&A originally opened in South Kensington in 1857, and a decade later the building was dismantled, moved to Bethnal Green, re-erected and clad in brick to become what is now the V&A Museum of Childhood, which celebrates childrens’ objects from the 1600s to the present day.
It’s currently undergoing a £13million renovation and, when it reopens in 2022, will be the UK’s first national museum designed and for young people. The Grade II-listed structure is being redesigned by AOC Architecture, who are taking inspiration from Lewis Carroll’s Alice in Wonderland. The permanent exhibition will explore everything from Beatrix Potter’s illustrations of Peter Rabbit, the cultural significance of Pikachu, and contemporary design such as Olafur Eliasson’s Little Sun solar lamp.
BUY
11. Bow Brook House VI, Gathorne Street, London E2
A second apartment within a Victorian school conversion, this time located in a quiet spot next to the Regent’s Canal. With double-height ceilings and large windows, space and light are in abundance here. A particular highlight is the communal roof terrace with vegetable gardens for growing fresh produce and far-reaching views of Bethnal Green and London beyond.
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